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For fans of French food and wine, there is no better time than October to hop over the Channel. The countryside is a hive of activity with the vendanges (grape harvest) in full swing. Meanwhile, rural woodlands are besieged by mushroom hunters and market stalls become a riot of colour as bright orange squash and pumpkins are piled high.
Down in the Gers in Midi-Pyrénées, our contributing editor Philip Faiers is on the lookout for woodlands surrounded by parked cars – a sure sign, he says, that there’s a bounty of fungi to be found.
“Ceps are the most prized variety and mushroom fanciers know that ten days after heavy rain is the best time; a few days after a new moon is also a fruitful time. If the two coincide then be prepared for a bumper harvest.”
When asked for his top tips for fungi foraging, Philip recommends collecting them in a wicker basket as they will deteriorate in a plastic bag. And starting your hunt at first light to beat the neighbours and the slugs. The France Magazine forum is also abuzz with tips for foraging, and Cat quotes www.rogersmushrooms.com as a resource for identifying the different species.
Our food columnist Rosa Jackson is full of ideas for preparing mushrooms, but her favourite way is to cook them slowly in olive oil before stuffing their diced stems with sautéed anchovies, parsley, shallot and lemon zest. Delicious!
In Burgundy, the harvest of vineyards in the Côtes de Beaune and Chablis is getting underway. According to David Cogan, who runs the Burgundy Eye website, it’s best to stay out of the way of harvesters unless you’re joining in. So, one of the most exciting ways to observe the region is from the sky in a hot air balloon. You’ll see the pickers hard at work below, as well as magnificent châteaux, beautiful red and orange forests and gentle, rolling hills as you float peacefully above the landscape.
Talking of balloons, Janet Rankin of Direct Corsica is looking forward to seeing the skies over Calvi in Corsica filled with balloons, kites and paragliders from October 29 to November 2.
The 17th Calvi Wind Festival is aimed at promoting the protection of the environment and renewable energy sources. On terra firma, meanwhile, there’ll be artists, painters and musicians performing in the streets and on stage. And if you’re hunting for some late summer sun, Corsica is the ideal place to catch some last-minute rays.
With that in mind, Year in the Merde author Stephen Clarke is heading to his favourite spot on the south coast, Bandol. Its semi-circular bay, fringing its clear turquoise sea, is the setting for his latest book Dial M for Merde. He tells me that even in October, the water is warm enough for snorkelling.
“Take a boat out to the secluded island of Bendor, just offshore,” he says, “where Daddi Milou's seafood restaurant is right on the waterfront - you can have a quick snorkel between courses”.
Also down south, writer Wendy Atkins is counting down the days before sampling the local wine and specialities close to her home in Carcassonne during the Ronde du Malepère wine festival on 18 and 19 October. If you fancy hopping over on a plane, the festival will provide you with dozens of tasting opportunities, street music and an art exhibition. She’s even heard a rumour that tasting glasses of Malpère wine will be given to those arriving at Carcassonne airport the week before.
Finally, conkers are falling from the trees around the newly renovated Tour St Jacques in Paris. The gothic tower has been covered with scaffolding for the last nine years and writer Jacqueline Karp tells me Parisians are enjoying the new view of it from the park that surrounds it.
Apparently, the tower glows in the warm autumn sunlight, complemented by the changing colours of the nearby horse chestnut trees. In the 16th century, the tower was the gathering point for pilgrims starting out along the route to St Jacques de Compostelle.
Don’t forget your binoculars for viewing the mythological animals, saints and devils gargoyles and grotesques that decorate it. If you fancy a bite to eat nearby, try the Restaurant St Martin in rue St Martin for some simple cuisine familiale.
Carolyn Boyd is editor of France Magazine
To subscribe to France magazine (six for £6, then £19.15 every six months by Direct Debit to the UK) visit www.subscription.co.uk/france/TO78 or buy a single copy (£3.99) at www.francemag.com.
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