Which is why, as often as possible, I summon up the stamina and determination to brave Channel gales, booze-cruise companions and French shopping queues to cater for Christmas entirely from a cross-Channel shopping expedition. The rewards are considerable. One can treat family and friends to delicacies that would be barely affordable (even when obtainable) in Britain. And in France shop assistants still happily gift-wraps goods “pour offrir” free of charge.

The operation can be profitable because all the alcohol is bought at France’s low, low rates of duty. UK tax on wine is around £1.50 a bottle. On the cheapest bottles of wine and on beers buying in France can save up to two thirds off the UK price. Discounts on other items such as perfumes, cosmetics, and French foods come as an optional bonus.

I usually travel alone, or with one (male) companion with a shop-till-you-drop attitude. Having women and children along might help divide the labour, but would more likely scupper the logistics with the attendant risk of lengthy discussions about what and where to buy.

Bear in mind that leading supermarkets and hypermarkets in France only open on Sundays in the last few weeks before Christmas, and also that all specialist food shops are likely to be closed on Monday mornings.

Here is the plan of campaign:

Make the earliest possible Channel crossing. However early you set out you labour under the handicap that it is already an hour later in France because of the time difference.

Pre-order wines, spirits and beers from Wine & Beer World, the cross-Channel branches of Majestic Wine Warehouses. There are two branches in Calais, one at Coquelles, handy for Eurotunnel passengers, and one off Junction 3 of the A26 close to the ferry terminals. Best buys include the great value house wines, Cuvé e de Richard red and white at £1.49 a bottle, excellent Casillero del Diablo varietal wines from Chile from £2.49, easy drinking Canti Bianco from Italy from £1.43, and, for really determined bargain hunters, reds and white from Spain’s La Mancha at just 99p a bottle. Brossault Brut champagne is £8.99 a bottle from France, £13.50 in Britain. The pre-ordering is done by ringing 01923 298297 or via the website www.wineandbeer.co.uk

Do not, though, make the mistake of loading up with wine and spirits first. That might prove unwise if you are leaving the vehicle parked while doing other shopping or eating a meal. I prefer to make the alcohol pick-up my last call on the way out.

Rather I head first to the hypermarket - preferably Auchan which I have always found the best stocked and most enterprising. Auchan now charges 3 cents for sturdy shopping bags, but those who shop at Leclerc (my second choice chain) are liable to be caught out by their policy of not supplying plastic bags at all.

The things which are still notably cheaper in French hypermarkets than in Britain include cookware (Le Creuset and Cousances casseroles and Teflon pans up to a third off), glasses, CDs,

Most foods I prefer to buy from specialist shops if possible, but Auchan is pretty good for hams, smoked salmon, condiments, oils and vinegars, pulses, and fresh fruits and vegetables. La Ratte du Touquet potatoes and more exotic squashes and pumpkins, salsify and scorzera are among favourites for adding variety to our Christmas vegetables.

Those pressed for time, or intent on a long lunch (see recommended restaurants below, categorised by eating time), will, no doubt, resort to one-stop shopping, and find Auchan more than a match for Tesco, Sainsbury’s or even Waitrose. But my next trick is as quick excursion to Licques, a small market town about 15 miles inland from Calais (via Guines) which specialises in raising poultry.

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