Anthony Peregrine
2 for 1 at Pizza Express

Quick - onto a ferry before your conscience catches up. You know what it will say. It’s been holding you back since the house price halved.
So, kick it in the head, leave it for dead and break free. Not far, of course. Just a flip across the Channel for a few days of loping around the French landscape, lingering over lunch and listening to a loved one, not Robert Peston. It will be just like the good old days of 2007.
And when, on your return, the conscience resurfaces, you may tell it that indeed you’re feeling bad, but feeling good about it. Here, then, are our suggestions for three refreshing spring drives in France, starting in the far north .
DUNKIRK-CALAIS
Received wisdom has it that the Nord-Pas-de-Calais region is a blighted industrial wasteland fuelled by beer and barbarism. Received wisdom is wrong, except about the beer. Out of Dunkirk to Bergues, an unassuming spot of ramparts, gardens and waterways, until consumed by national celebrity last year.
Its starring role in the most successful French film ever, Bienvenue Chez les Ch’tis, thrust it backwards into the limelight. Get the story from the tourist office beneath the grand civic belfry, then cross the square for a Ch’ti beer (Ch’ti means “northerner”) and a fricadelle sausage from the chip shop. Don’t ask what’s in it. You don’t want to know.
South to Cassel, the warm heart of French Flanders, with stepped gables, greensward and a certain underlying truculence. Study the flags and emblems. A Flemish lion with black (rather than red) claws and tongue indicates the presence of Flemish extremists, with whom it’s unwise to tangle.
On to St -Omer, a bright and settled spot with prosperous perspectives down venerable streets. Ignore the famous Sandelin Museum - great building, but boring as hell unless you like pottery and coins - for the gothic cathedral and, just out of town, La Coupole, a former V2 base, now a first-rate war museum .
Overnight and dine in Gosnay, at the stately Chartreuse du Val St-Esprit (00 33-3 21 62 80 00, lachartreuse.com; doubles from £127). Stirrings of conscience may be silenced next morning, by payment of respects to the great war, first at Notre Dame de Lorette , France’s biggest first world war cemetery , and later at Vimy Ridge.
Here, the Canadian role in the unpleasantness is commemorated on an engrossing and sombre scale. You will be moved, all being well, to silence.
East to Douai , for France’s finest belfry sticking out of a grandiose town hall, and then to Lewarde for the superb mining museum . Miss this and you’ll never know where the north comes from or how far it has travelled. Later to the Ferme de la Sensée at Gouysous-Bellone (5 Rue de l’Eglise; 03 21 50 21 68, fermedelasensee.com; B&B doubles from £64) to rest the spirit amid horses, birdsong and home cooking.
West to Arras, where Flemish textile traders could still be issuing forth from the fabulous, crow-stepped frontages to mingle with caf e society in the main squares. Opened last year just off-centre, the Wellington quarry site - adapted by Kiwi tunnellers in 1917 for underground attack purposes - is an enthralling visit.
Search for a holiday
e.g. Villa in Tuscany
Industry sectors news at a glance. Interactive heatmap, video and podcast
Everything the Business Traveller needs to know to make a better trip
Get ready for the winter sports season, with our resort guides and snow reports
We are backing British business, what is the confidence of the nation and what businesses are succeeding?
Growing demand for energy, oil that is harder to reach and the rise of carbon dioxide emissions. We examine the energy challenge
With rail travel in Europe on the rise, we review the benefits of travelling by train
In this special section we explore new food trends to help improve your dinner party and impress guests
Enjoy further reading from Travel to Fashion, Business to Sport, discover more



Free luxury travel brochures from specialist tour operators. Find your perfect holiday
Worldwide holidays from Times Selects. View our e-brochure and check out our superb collection of escorted tours
Advertise your home to the best travel audience on Times Online and VacationRentalPeople.com
Shortcuts to help you find topical sections and articles
1998
£47,955
2004
£56,950
Essex
Check your free Experian credit report before applying
Car Insurance
£100,000
Barnardos
UK
£123,460 pa
The Law Commission
London
£37,000
Department for Culture, Media and Sport
London
Competitive + bonus + benefits
Manchester United
Central London
Moments from Battersea Park.
For sale with Winkworth
Find out about shared ownership.
See your free Experian credit report beforehand
Includes flights, accommodation with room upgrades, transfers city tours in Hong Kong and Bangkok.
PremierHolidays.co.uk
For your ultimate tailor-made ski holiday, click here
Get covered on your travels with a superb range of policies at great prices. Visit InsureandGo.com
Choose from the beautiful landscape and tranquil beaches of Oahu, Kauai, Maui & Big Island.
Contact our advertising team for advertising and sponsorship in Times Online, The Times and The Sunday Times, or place your advertisement.
Times Online Services: Dating | Jobs | Property Search | Used Cars | Holidays | Births, Marriages, Deaths | Subscriptions | E-paper
News International associated websites: Globrix Property Search | Milkround
Copyright 2009 Times Newspapers Ltd.
This service is provided on Times Newspapers' standard Terms and Conditions. Please read our Privacy Policy.To inquire about a licence to reproduce material from Times Online, The Times or The Sunday Times, click here.This website is published by a member of the News International Group. News International Limited, 1 Virginia St, London E98 1XY, is the holding company for the News International group and is registered in England No 81701. VAT number GB 243 8054 69.