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If you like a little scenery with your skiing, this is the place to come. Just across the valley rises the north wall of the Jungfrau — 11,000ft of hanging glaciers, catastrophic rockfalls and monstrous cliffs. Nowhere I’ve skied in either Europe or North America comes close to it — not Chamonix (for Mont Blanc), not Gressoney (for Monterosa), not even Zermatt (for the Matterhorn). The most jaw-dropping view is from the restaurant at the top of the Schilthorn. Remember, it’s bad manners to eat with your mouth open.
How to do it: Mürren works best as a short break for intermediate skiers. Fly to Zurich with BA (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com), Swiss (0845 601 0956, www.swiss.com) or Aer Lingus (0818 365000, www.aerlingus.com), or to Berne with Swiss, then take the train up to the resort (www.sbb.ch; returns from Zurich cost £68pp). The old-fashioned but superfriendly Hotel Eiger (00 41 33 856 5454, www.hoteleiger.com; doubles from £122 per night, B&B) is a good base. If you don’t want to go independently, Ski Solutions (020 7471 7777, www.skisolutions.com) can tailor-make a package for you.
www.muerren.ch
4. VERBIER, Switzerland
Not everyone will warm to Verbier. Those new to skiing or boarding will find it an inscrutable, elitist resort where experts seem to have all the fun. Cautious intermediates will hate the fractured layout of the pistes. But for anyone who loves to ski off piste, or wants to learn how, it’s heaven. The secret is the combination of superb, high-Alpine terrain, an obliging lift system and top-quality tuition, courtesy of the Warren Smith Ski Academy (01525 374757, www.warrensmith-skiacademy.com; five-day courses £279pp). Verbier also has two of the world’s best après-ski venues, Pub Mont Fort and the Farinet, in which to celebrate your heroics each evening.
How to do it: nowhere is more convenient than the six-person Chalet Astoria, run by Ski Verbier (020 7385 8050, www.skiverbier.com). It costs £875pp, half-board, for the week, excluding flights and transfers. To get to Verbier, fly to Geneva (see Ste-Foy Tarentaise, above) and jump on the train (www.sbb.ch) — there are regular services from the airport and the journey costs £48pp return.
www.verbier.ch
5. LECH, Austria
They don’t come much more picture-perfect than Lech. They don’t come much snowier, either — at least, not in the Alps. The yearly average here (about 20ft) isn’t far short of some of the Rocky Mountain resorts, and this alone makes it one for your must-ski list. What makes Lech really interesting, however, is the fact that all but the most inquisitive off-pisters never get here — they’re lured across the Arlberg Pass by the stellar reputation of nearby St Anton. Fools.
How to do it: stay at the comfortable but old-fashioned Chalet Hotel Sonneck. It costs £659pp for the week, including flights and transfers, through Total (0870 163 3633, www.skitotal.com).
www.lechzuers.at
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