This famously beer-sodden city opened a fabulous new £85 million modern art museum just over a year ago — the Pinakothek der Moderne (Barer Strasse 40, www.pinakothek.de, £6.50 — free Sunday). It has four sections, on art, design, architecture and graphic art, with Picassos, Magrittes and all kinds of top German artists drawing in crowds; a must-see is the work of Max Beckmann, Germany’s answer to Picasso.

A homage to the American “rock poet” Patti Smith, Strange Messenger: The Work of Patti Smith is on until February 29, at Haus der Kunst (Prinzregentenstrasse 1, 00 49 89 211270, £5). Although Smith is known for her music and poetry, the exhibition includes 100 of her works on paper, as well as photographs, videos and fashion.

For the seriously highbrow, the State Opera House (2185 1920, www.bayerische.staatsoper.de) is fantastically ornate, home to some of the best opera productions in Europe. The next premiere is Roberto Devereux by Donizetti, opening on Monday.

Fill up on culture, then tank up on foamy Bavarian booze at one of 20 atmospheric drinking halls in the city centre.

Lenten Starkbierfest, the strong beer season, when traditionally monks brewed an especially nourishing beer during Lent to strengthen the body weakened by fasting, is from February 27 to April at the Lowenbraukellar (Nymphenburgerstrasse 2, 524244).

WHAT ELSE?

A stone’s throw from the Pinakothek lies the English Garden, the city’s vast, stream-cut park, which is perfect if the kids need to let off a little steam. If you want to explore a little further, an hour’s drive away lies Lake Tegernsee, where you can hire little electric powerboats (£11 for half an hour) or swim in Bavaria’s cleanest waters.

Or simply stay city-bound, exploring some of Munich’s 57 other galleries and museums. Best of the bunch is the massive Munich Residence (Residenzstrasse 1, www.schloesser.bayern.de), home since the 1570s to Bavarian kings, dukes and electors; 130 rooms crammed with works of art. The highlight is the Antiquarium, the largest Renaissance hall in northern Europe, breathtaking in its scale. Open daily 10am-4pm, admission £4.

The Long Night of the Museums, when museums remain open all night, is on May 15.

WHERE TO STAY

The exquisite, though pricey, Mandarin Oriental Hotel (Neuturmstrasse 1, Munich; tel: 00 800 2828 3838, www.mandarinoriental.com) is a pleasant 15-minute walk or five-minute taxi ride from the Pinakothek der Moderne. It lies in the best shopping, eating and drinking area around Maximilianstrasse. Doubles from £220 a room.

More reasonably priced but almost as central, the Hotel Exquisit (Pettenkoferstrasse 3, 551990) is charming, and though its decor might seem a tad heavy, the same beefy approach is matched by the kitchen, so you get solid breakfasts. Doubles from £112 a room.

FOOD AND FUN

The Pinakothek der Moderne houses a lovely airy café for lunches or stylish snacks, but the best coffee in Munich happens to be offered by the most chic and most central venue: L’Espresso’s pavement tables are ranged alongside Maximilianstrasse’s fine shops, opposite the National Theatre.

For a truly Bavarian food experience try the Durnbrau (Durnbraugasse 2, 222195; about £20 for three courses) near the Mandarin Oriental.

The best tourist drinking den is also truly German in spirit: the mighty Hofbrauhaus (Platzl 9, 290 1360), a cavernous beer hall serving big food or just foaming steins until the small hours, with added music and song.

NEED TO KNOW

Lufthansa (0845 7737747, www.lufthansa.co.uk) flies from Heathrow from £94.20 return. EasyJet (0871 7500100, www.easyjet.com) flies Stansted-Munich from £82.83 return.

German National Tourist Office: 020-7317 0908, www.germany-tourism.co.uk, or www.munich-tourist.de.

AA CityPack Munich (AA, £6.99) is a useful guide, and light enough to pocket for a weekend.

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