There is nothing more romantic than sailing into a tiny Greek island harbour as the sun is setting behind a distant mountain. The smell of barbecuing meat and herbs wafting in from the harbour side tavernas; descending down the gangplank with the rest of the backpackers, to be greeted by a gaggle of Greek housewives.

Known as 'Ya-yas' dressed in their traditional black, their English is basic "You want room?" they ask. And following a Ya-ya through the narrow back streets of an idyllic little Greek village, eventually you are taken up a flight of stairs and shown the most basic of basic rooms. But being tired, thirsty and ready for a second Greek salad of the day, it's perfect.

But things change and we all get older. The backpack has long since gone. The waist band is expanding the back is stiffening. Fastening ones shoelaces now counts as exercise. But at least the pay packet has improved - to reflect ones maturity. So today we want luxury.

We demand comfort, we want power showers, balconies with views - all the comforts of home, but with an infinity pool.

So on this two-island visit to the Ionians, I'm sailing into the tiny village of Vathy on the island of Meganissi, but not on an overcrowded ferry. No this time, it's a luxury 45-ft chartered ketch. It all feels very glamourous, very jet-set - though Vathy is no St. Tropez.

It's more a fly speck of a port, used mainly by fisherman and fellow yachts people, with a scattering of tavernas, a couple of churches and some holiday villas. Our skipper, Roger - a cheeky-chappy Liverpudlian - manoeuvres 'Scorpios' skillfully into a very narrow space between two other boats.

Many an evening on my past trips to the islands, I've sat in a harbour-front bar watching yachts, like Scorpios, sail in, and marvelled at the seamanship. Now I've experienced it from the other side along with the early evening drinks on deck.

Eventually, our sundowners polished off, we touch down on to dry land and head off to our villas. These were a bracing walk along the quay side, out of the port and up a little incline.

Positioned high up at the mouth of the little harbour, the views are spectacular - across the bay picturesque fishing boats sailing in, yachts sailing out and the Lefkada ferry journeying both ways.

The villas are very modern; all clean lines, with modern paintings on the walls, tiled floors and a neat kitchen with a fridge full of basics for a first night. The attention to detail is impressive, even down to a bunch of fresh flowers on the dining-room table. The villas sleep six, with bedrooms on each of the three floors, so it's perfect for a family or a group of friends.

My room, on the top floor, was super cool, with a huge balcony. The shower was the size of a typical village room on my past Greek visits. It had a bath and plumbing of such a high standard that you didn't need to dispose of your used toilet paper in the usual little bin, which will please the squeamish.

That night we ate lamb chops and a fiery tzatziki with a local very drinkable wine at Porto Vathy Taverna situated on a little pier out into the harbour. Followed by late drinks and loud music with the locals in the Boom Boom bar, which is only a short distance from the villa and the comfort of our beds.

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