Simon Morgan, 50, left the UK 20 years ago to race catamarans on the Greek island of Lefkas. He now runs Wildwind Sailing Holidays

Eat here

Don't miss Stelios restaurant in Vassiliki, a fusion of modern Greek and Italian cuisine on the harbour front.

Must do

Many visitors concentrate too much on the on-the-water action and miss out on the scenery of Lefkas's wild west coast - views from the road of Greece's finest beaches.

Avoid

Porto Katsiki beach on Sundays and high summer.

Top shop

Has to be the bakery in Vassiliki. Open 24 hours during the summer months, they make their own bread, pastries, pizzas and biscuits.

A to B

The Greek word for yes is similar to everyone else's word for no - nay. Many a tourist has asked whether this bus goes to Vassiliki, only to get off when the driver says “nay” and then wait half a day for the next one.

Insider tip

Credit cards are still not accepted everywhere and cash machines run out of money almost every weekend. Post offices, pharmacies and local bureaucracies rarely open after 2pm.

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