What are the first words that come to mind when asked to describe Kolkata? Dirty? Poor? Hard work? Kolkata certainly is all of those things, but she is also so much more, and for those who are looking for an authentic Indian experience, Kolkata is the perfect destination.

Once the capital of British India, Kolkata (formerly Calcutta) is now largely ignored in favour of the glamour of Mumbai, or the capital sophistication of Delhi. Even seasoned backpackers, who pride themselves on their grit, seem to give Kolkata a wide berth, as if she might swallow them up whole.

Admittedly, Kolkata has not tidied herself up for tourists; she may have a ladder in her tights, and her lipstick might be a bit smeared, but she is all the more beautiful for that. Indeed, it is this insouciant attitude which gives Kolkata so much soul.

An often heady brew of life’s contradictions and extremities – massive wealth next to heart-breaking poverty, teeming slums not far from five star hotels – a wide open mind is essential for anyone visiting Kolkata, in order to reap the most enjoyment from the city.

You can sit back in a hand drawn rickshaw, and enjoy the peculiarly exhilarating yet relaxing ride, whilst taking in the fading grandeur of the old colonial buildings, which blush coquettishly at sunset. Or wander into Hathi Bagan (Elephant Garden) market, and be prepared for an assault on the senses, as stall-holders clamour for your business, and you traipse through narrow aisles, watching some men nimbly string up fragrant garlands of marigolds and roses, whilst others behead chickens, feathers fluttering to the ground.

Perhaps seek out frenzied worshippers at Kalighat, and watch a goat being sacrificed; if you’re lucky, the priest may anoint you with a goat’s blood tilak. Even when bound in one of Kolkata’s abundant traffic jams, take the opportunity to roll down a window and admire an incongruously healthy cow pulling rank on the road, photograph the flashy, hand-painted motifs on the trucks, or buy a piece of fruit from one of the car-to-car vendors.

Maybe snatch a moment of peace at the Botanical Gardens, and catch sight of sparkling dragonflies buzzing around sacred lotuses. If the bustle of the place becomes too much, you may sit back with a gin and tonic at the Oberoi Grand hotel, and listen to some soothing jazz.

Of course, one of the reasons why Kolkata has failed to become a tourist hot spot in India is because although she doesn’t discourage them, she doesn’t make it easy for them either. There are no real guided tours of the city, no open-top buses, no I Heart Kolkata T-shirts.

In this sense, Kolkata does not encourage a superficial glance, she encourages deeper exploration. And her people – warm, friendly, helpful, without being intrusive – are only more than happy to help you out: you just have to ask. Even though some people may only be able to speak the most basic of English, where there’s a will, there’s a way, and with a little bit of effort, you will find what you’re looking for. It is a poignant experience to find yourself on your own in a wondrous building, as if you had discovered it yourself, with no other tourists around you snapping away with their cameras.

Politically, Kolkatans are some of the most aware and involved people in the world – in any one trip, you’ll probably be witness to a labour procession or political rally, maybe peaceful, maybe not. In Kolkata, everyone has an opinion, and will be more than happy to share it with you. If you don’t want to indulge in direct verbal combat, then go to a coffee house on College Street, and listen in on other people’s vocal sparring.

Kolkatans also have a very rich cultural life: passionate about books, theatre, music. Do as the natives do, and take in a classical recital at the Rabindra Sadan or watch a thought-provoking avant-garde play next door at the Nandan.

Last, but certainly not least, there is the cuisine, some of the best in the world, whether a freshly fried vegetable cutlet from a street stall, or a haute experience at one of the city’s glamorous restaurants. Don’t stick with a tried-and-tested favourite; explore. If you can wangle a dinner invitation to someone’s house – you’re in for a treat; Bengali hospitality is legendary. And even if you find the desserts a little on the sugary side, have as many mouthfuls as you can manage, anyway; your host will be offended if you don’t.

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