Feel like an Indian? You’ll have to put in a bit of homework if you plan on
going to India to find your meal. After all, if you prefer the fish curries
of Goa, for example, you won’t want to spend your time in Uttar Pradesh with
nothing but kebabs to eat.
With 29 states, India is as regionally diverse as Europe, with each state
serving up its own particular cuisine. So, are the pappadums ready? Cold
beer poured? Here’s where to go when you’re ready to step beyond chicken
tikka masala.
Kerala
Stretching along India’s southwest coast, this lush, tropical state’s main
attraction lies in its wonderful spices – pepper, cardamom, ginger, cloves,
turmeric – which for centuries have attracted greedy traders from the Arabs
and Chinese to the Portuguese and British. While much of the Hindu
population is vegetarian, local seafood invariably turns up in curries and
fried dishes.
Don’t miss: cheera pachadi (spinach and yoghurt); appam (rice
pancake), konju pullao (shrimp pilaf), payaru thoran (green beans with
coconut).
Eat at: Fort Cochin Restaurant, Casino Hotel, Willingdon Island (00 91
48 4266 8221, www.casinogroupkerala.com).
Goa
After 450 years of Portuguese rule, it’s hardly surprising that tiny Goa has a
relaxed, southern European feel. Bars are prevalent, and the spectacular
sandy beaches have attracted visitors since the Sixties. Naturally this is
the place for fish – more than 100 varieties of salt and freshwater fish, in
fact – seductively cooked with coconut and spices. Meats, such as pork,
chicken and Portuguese-style chouriço sausages, are often heavily spiced or
spiked with vinegar.
Don’t miss: Goan fish curry; caldeen (fish simmered in coconut
milk, ginger and cumin), ambot tik (prawn curry), pao com chouriços (spicy
sausages), pork vindaloo.
Eat at: Mum’s Kitchen, Martins Building, DB Marg, Miramar (98 2217
5559).
Punjab
What most think of as “Indian food”, particularly tandoori chicken cooked in
large clay ovens, is, in fact, Punjabi. With the partition of India in 1947,
millions of Punjabi refugees fled to Britain and the US, bringing the taste
of home with them. We also know their chapatti, poora and paratha breads,
and vegetable dishes such as muttar paneer (cheese and pea curry) and aloo
gobi (potatoes and cauliflower).
The Punjab produces most of India’s wheat as well as pulses, vegetables, and
rice. Cows and buffalo are plentiful, so milk in one form or other – lassi
(a yoghurt drink) – is part of every meal.
Don’t miss: saag gosht (spinach and lamb curry), chicken tikka
(marinated chicken skewers cooked in the tandoor), aloo mattar (curried
potatoes and peas), kulfi (ice-cream).
Eat at: Swagath Fine Diner Restaurant and Bar, SCO 7, Sector 26
Chandigarh (17 2304 5678).
Uttar Pradesh
To the southwest of the Himalayas, and watered by the sacred Ganges, Uttar
Pradesh combines influences from both Hindu and Muslim cultures. Hindus, who
live on the plains, have a simpler vegetarian diet that emphasises dal
(lentil) dishes. Meals are served on thalis, accompanied by pickles,
chutneys and chapattis.
In contrast, the predominantly Muslim capital of Lucknow is a stronghold of
Mogul cuisine, famous for mouth-watering kebabs, and rich, festive biryani
rice dishes peppered with saffron, nuts and raisins.
Don’t miss: pasanda kebab (flattened mutton skewers), murgh
biryani (spicy chicken and rice), shami kebab (mincemeat and chickpea
skewers), jalebi (fried batter in syrup), barfi (milk fudge).
Eat at: Falaknuma, Hotel Clarks Avadh, 8 MG Marg, Lucknow (52 2262
0131).
West Bengal
Not surprisingly, West Bengal shares many similarities with neighbouring
Bangladesh, once part of the original state of Bengal. Rice is a staple, and
mustard oil is widely used. All Bengalis have a passion for freshwater fish,
which can be cooked with split peas, stuffed into coconuts and made into
patties.
One of the most popular fish is hilsa, a handsome silvery variety that spends
winter in the open sea before making its way to the Ganges delta to spawn.
Don’t miss: maachher jhol (fish in spicy sauce), chingril
maachher jhaal (prawns with mustard seeds), rasgolla (sweet, white paneer
balls), and bhapa ilish (steamed hilsa).
Eat at: Kewpie’s, 2 Elgin Lane, Calcutta (33 2475 9880).
