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From The Sunday Times

February 5, 2008

Six of the best Irish pubs

From Dublin to the remote taverns of Kerry’s Atlantic coast, the Irish pub scene mixes trad with the rad

Guyan Mitra

From The Sunday Times Travel Magazine

O’Connell’s, Skryne Hill, County Meath

If you think the exterior of this pub looks familiar, it’s because Guinness liked its stunning location (high above the sea on Skryne Hill) so much that they used the pub in one of their adverts. Lush green hills tumble out towards Dublin, and the noise of the waves masks the chatter around the bar.

Regulars don’t come to O’Connell’s for the view though, or the interior design: the only furniture in its two rooms is a line of rickety wooden benches along the wall, a few stools at the bar and a battered old pool table. But Mrs O’s (as it’s known in these parts) has one of the warmest welcomes in the country.

Smiley soaks turn their heads to the door and greet every newcomer, while the elegant old landlady shuffles around the pub solicitously until she’s sure that everyone’s happy.

The only evidence that you haven’t been transported back to an older, friendlier time is the dates on the newspapers (although there’s still a few yellowing cuttings decorating the place – mostly concerning sports and the ancient Hill of Tara burial site down the road).

As the evening draws in and the stout and whiskey take hold, the banter among the locals and the landlady reaches an almighty crescendo (Mrs O shells out so many free pints to help the atmosphere along that it’s a wonder she keeps a roof over her head).

Her favourite nights, she says, are when the fiddles and bodhráns (shallow one-sided drums) take over the corner by the grate fireplace – and everyone joins in a singsong.

O’Connell’s, Skryne Hill, County Meath (00 353 46 902 5122).

The Bulman, Kinsale, County Cork

Why does a pub need its own pier? Well how else are they going to source their famous claw-cluttered trays of crustaceans?

And the exquisite seafood isn’t the only reason to moor up at The Bulman: after an afternoon spent boating around a yacht-filled harbour, where baby-blue skies blend into bottle-green briny, this solitary little watering-hole on the edge of the shore is a welcome stop-off point.

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The Strand bar in Sligo- Right on the atlantic (Perfect walking along the beach for working up a hunger or thirst) with bands there weekly. How very typical that Dublin gets numerous mentions!

Jenny, Edinburgh,

The Irish Times office has long moved location! Also, try The Palace around the corner - much smaller, much more of a non tourist trap, and much more where anyone in Dublin would actually go!

Ann, Dublin, Ireland

Liffey Bridge??
The Liffey is the congealed matter underneath the bridge ever so slighty diluted from the late night revellers from Cassidy's!
I think you mean O'Connell Bridge.

Keith, Los Angelese, USA