Sicily is a wonderfully enigmatic place. Although part of 21st century Europe it still feels and looks like a place lost in centuries gone by. From the thousands of abandoned stone houses dotted all over the countryside to the remains of ancient civilizations to the dark and twisting allies of towns and cities to the sheer grandeur of the topography it is like an epic story with the ending yet to be written.

It is full of characters living lives as bakers and fishermen, as shop owners and vintners, as farmers and priests, all with an honest sense of hospitality almost forgotten in other parts of Europe.

For many years the threat posed by the mafia kept tourism to Sicily down. But, for the past ten years that trend has been changing, thanks in large part to the police and judiciary. No longer are small, family-run businesses and hotels afraid of opening or having a good part of their profits end up in the coffers of local hoods. This has given rise to a number of agro-tourism operations. Farms and vineyards all over the island now offer well-appointed accommodation for visitors, all without the fear of sharing a bed with a horse’s head.

Sicily is one of the few remaining hidden gems of Europe. Dogged for decades by bad press thanks to the antics of the Cosa Nostra it is now beginning to take its rightful position as on of the continent’s most intriguing places. With stunning scenery, excellent food and wine, great accommodation and people that go out of their way to welcome, it won’t be long before the descendants of those million or so immigrants will want to return.

NEED TO KNOW

Doug McKinlay stayed at Baglio Fontana in the Province of Trapani; starting at £68 per night, double or single on a B&B basis; Baglio San Vincenzo in the Province of Agrigento; starting at £60 per night, double of single on a bed and breakfast basis; Sant’ Agata, near Corleone, starting at £58 per night, double or single on a bed and breakfast basis. This accommodation booked with Open Sicily, or freephone: 0800 083 9108.

Libera Terra; tel. +39 (0) 91/8577655. www.liberaterra.it - accommodation: £28 per person per night.

Air: Easyjet, Gatwick-Palermo, from £79.98 inclusive of taxes. Please note Easyjet fares change on a daily basis, for best prices book at least two weeks in advance.

Car: Holiday Autos, starting at £126 per week.

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