We were gliding across the shimmering blue-grey waters of Lake Garda on a clear and warm spring day, with the region waking up to another busy summer season. Travelling southwest to northeast towards the historic port of Malcesine, little did we think we would find ourselves in a snowball fight on top of a mountain.

But this beautiful and classical part of northeastern Italy, for all its familiarity, still has the ability to surprise and Malcesine was no exception. We took the chance to be whisked up Mt Baldo by cable car, climbing 1,760m (5774ft) in a few minutes, at times seeming only to just clear the brushwood below, and were thrilled to find snow falling on a white-covered plateau, clustered with ski huts and mountain-top cafés.

Malcesine on descent was as pretty as a picture and, fortunately, not yet heaving with tourists. Its wisteria-adorned, narrow cobbled alleys, its big church and, above all, its famous castle make for a delightful stopover, one of many on this elongated lake, 51.6km by 17.2km (32 miles by 10 miles), at its widest point.

Lake Garda has a Mediterranean feel in the south - with its beaches and vineyards - but as it narrows to the fjord-like north, could easily be a part of nearby Austria, with mountains dropping sheer into the water, lofty bell towers and tunnels. The lake takes four hours to cross by the regular motorboats that ply its waters (two and a half hours by catamaran). From Sirmione at its southern tip to Riva at the far north, there is plenty to see.

Sited at the end of a long promontory, Sirmione is a tourist magnet with its moated 13th-century castle built by the Scaligeris and bearing the powerful family's telltale fishtail battlements. Climbing the tower is worth the effort with its views of the lake and the waters lapping the battlements, the town, and the snow-capped mountains beyond.

At the promontory's tip lies the remains of a Roman villa, the Grotte di Catullo. A short boat ride away up the lake's western side is the elegant town of Salò, where the inventor of the violin was born. This town with its huge, Gothic cathedral, ancient doorways and many shops should not be missed.

The Gardone Riviera, just up the road from Salò, has attracted the likes of Churchill and Somerset Maugham. The area was developed by German doctors, who praised the therapeutic qualities of its rich vegetation and a climate that is a mix of Mid-European, Mediterranean and subtropical.

Several hotels specialise in thermal baths, spas and saunas. Ours, the five-star Grand Hotel Fasano, was no exception. It is one of seven hotels where Prestige Holidays is offering holidays on Lake Garda. John Dixon, Prestige's chairman, says: “We have been keen to add Italy for a while but took our time to find just the right location and properties. Lake Garda is one of the most beautiful areas of a very beautiful country.”

Based around a former hunting lodge used by the Habsburgs, the Fasano is a 15-minute walk from the little port of Gardone. On the way are extensive tranquil botanical gardens and two highly unusual museums.

One is dedicated to the eccentric writer and poet Gabriele D'Annunzio; the Italian Navy donated a military vessel for his mausoleum that is set in the gardens. The second museum houses more than 200 baby Jesus sculptures. Il Divino Infante is the result of a 30-year collection from all over Italy by Hiky Mayr, who has done much of the restoration - wigs, embroidery and jewellery - herself.

Lake Garda is a rich source for concerts, operas and art festivals. There are also numerous palazzos, Baroque churches and medieval forts to enjoy. For those seeking an antidote to all the culture, Italy's biggest amusement park lies on the lake's southeastern side.

The area is a magnet for sports enthusiasts, especially for hiking, mountain bike riding, sailing and golf. Feasting on the breathtaking views while enjoying the local food and wine makes for a great culinary experience.

The lake produces a wide variety of fish, and we found the pesce persico risotto and lavarello (white fish), served on a bed of gnocchi (potato dumplings), especially tasty. Honey and cheese are also local specialities. The lake's olive oil is reputed to be the best in Italy and the dry red Bardolino or still white wines make an excellent accompaniment. Try a gelato or a shot of limoncello to round off the meal.

If you are not sated by what the lake has to offer, several renowned cities lie within striking distance of Desenzano on the lake's southern tip. From this former Roman port, Brescia is 16 minutes by fast train, Verona 27, Milan 70 and Venice just under two hours.

All, of course, have their attractions. Verona, with its magnificent arena, marbled streets and Casa di Giulietta (which claims to house Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet balcony) is easily reached but, for us, Venice was an exhausting yet wonderful highlight to a week that we wished had been two.

Prestige Holidays operates seven hotels in Lake Garda in the resorts of Gardone, Salò and Sirmione, with prices starting at £889 for a week's B&B at the Grand Hotel Gardone Riviera, until July 4, including return BA flights between Gatwick and Verona and transfers. A week's B&B at the Grand Hotel Fasano is from £983 with flights, until July 26.

www.prestigeholidays.co.uk; 01425 480400

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