Veronica Schmidt
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Perhaps it was because we had come from that most unbeatable of cities, Rome. Perhaps the drizzle washed away our good will. Perhaps I’m revealing myself as a philistine, but I didn’t like Florence.
The Tuscan city had seemed so promising on paper. With a heaving history, beginning with Julius Caesar, dancing through the Renaissance, and very nearly ending during the death throes of the Third Reich, intrigue should have dripped from the myriad monuments.
It didn’t. What did were tourists. They were in every square, every street and every restaurant you dared to push your way into. But mostly, they were in queues.
Snaking from the modest door of the Galleria dell’ Academia, standing single file, eyes on the stairs leading to the dome of The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, and watching one another suspiciously, legs arranged territorially, as they marked their spot in the hours-long queue outside that most feted of gallery, the Uffizi.
Sore feet and boredom aside, the problem with epic queues is that they build anticipation. After two hours in the sun or, God forbid, rain, watching the eyes of fellow tourists fixed greedily on the door, small disappointments on entry can enrage.
Finding that the Uffizi’s layout was a maze and that, aside from David, the Musee dell’ Academia’s collection was limited brought on a furious bout of resentment that even Florence’s famous Renaissance artists – Michelangelo, Raphael and da Vinci among them – struggled to lift.
And so it was with most everything else in Florence. The city delivers delectable Tuscan fare - rich hams, fragrant pecorino, fruity virgin olive oil- and easy-drinking bottles of Chianti – but it comes with surly service.
The markets tempt with brilliantly-priced leather products, but vendors pen foreboding ‘do not touch signs’ and angrily drop the cheery patter if you decline to buy.
The churches charm, but the Armo river is filthy and the hotel area near the central rail station dark and foreboding.
But if being let down by one of Europe's most popular cities was a surprise, what really stunned me was was that when I arrived home and gingerly voiced my views to friends, they didn't rebuke me as I had expected, but told me they hadn't thought much of the city either.
Call us spoilt, we agreed, but we'd prefer a city that doesn’t make you work quite so hard to enjoy its gifts.
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I lived in Florence for a year and loved it. A whistlestop tour cannot do it justice. I agree with the comment about Fiesole - take the # 7 bus there to see incredibe Roman ruins, as well as a gorgeous church and a monastery complete with a real Egyptian mummy! (Yes, i know this is Italy).
Amabel, London,
How safe is it for a 34 year old single female to be in Florence... I won't be doing the clubs and bars, its strictly hotel, shopping and arty things.
Kate, Herts, UK
I have just returned from a three month motorcycle tour of Europe and have to say that, off all the great cities we visited, I put Florence near the top. We stayed at a campground next to Piazza Michelangiolo, a lookout overlooking the city, and loved the ambience, history and buildings.
jim chesterman, perth, australia
Hire a scooter, stay in the foothills and visit the centre in early morning or evening. Spend the rest of the day eating in the surrounding trattorias and listening to the bells of the duomo drift up to your haven under the cyprus trees.
Day trips to the tuscan countryside are highly recommended!
Mark, London,
I agree with the article....Florence is way too crowded, traffic is impossible, there is no place to park if you drive (would recommend not attempting) and quite frankly all the attractions seem just a little over-rated. Loved the Tuscan countryside and Rome was nice, although also very crowded.
Keith, Winston-Salem, USA
Look having lived in London it was a joy to go to Florence.
The locals were lovely if you want to see scary Italians try Naples or Sicily (I love both those places too just don't wander to far off the beaten track) Once you have seen David in the Academia you won't care about the litter!
Simon, Bristol, England
I agree wholeheartedly - Florence is magnificent - just don't go as a tourist. Go off season. Pre-book. Wander off the beaten track. Don't buy leather in the markets, buy it in the stores! Sorry you didn't like it - one more place for me next time.
Suzanne Graham, London, UK
Just returned from a week in Florence and had a fantastic time. MUCH better than expected largely due to the private flat we booked in Via del Neri beside the Bargello and Palazzo Vecchio with both gorgeous garden terrace as well as an upper rooftop terrace. Skip Boboli but visit the Bardini Gardens
M, London, UK
I recommend you PRE-BOOK tickets for the Uffizi and Accademia through your hotel/agent. How simple it would be to number the rooms at the Uffizi and key it to a guide. Florence is truly the capital of Renaissance art but also the centre for graffiti and litter. It is not yet organised for tourism.
Jennifer Lunn, Woking, UK
I visit Florence roughly twice a year because it is one of my favourite places on earth and food for the soul. You have to go as a visitor not a tourist and find the real Firenze. There is plenty of famous art in all the churches for free or else book online to avoid queues before you go !!
Julia Oliver, Bishop's Stortford, United Kingdom
Last summer Florence was not answering our expectations. Dirty, crowded, very bad streets (by car). Indeed: better try Siena or Lucca.
Harrie, IJmuiden, Holland
I have just spent two weeks in Florence - a week in August as a result of winning a competition (NOT Where Was I?!) and another week in September. The art and beauty of the place captivated me, but I agree that many of the locals were surly and we were shocked by the amount of litter in the streets.
Jennifer Lunn, Woking, UK
I personally preferred Rome too. But everyone knows summer is the worst time for visting a city. Especially in Southern Europe, because of the heat. People who live in Barcelona, we leave the city in summer if we have the chance. And sorry, I find the tone of the article rude and distateful.
Gabi, Barcelona, Spain
We travelled around Italy in June, Firenze was lovely, we found a cheap hotel which was actually a large apartment south of the river converted into 4 en-suite rooms, and in the afternoon and evening wandered the touristy bits, then went for a meal in a lost square with more locals. Made the city.
David, Oxford, UK
Florence has many treasures. The local government has let the city fall into great decay. Add: the Italian incapacity to organize, or valorize its treasures and you come away very frustrated by the city. One thing remarkable: it's skyline is almost unchanged since the Renaisance, no hi-rises.
Lorenzo, Siena, Italy
Florence is so beautifuI that no all can appreciate it!It's a marvellous tiny city, obviously you shouldn't visit it in August: there aren't florentines but only tourists and it's too hot.Arno views, especially the Ponte Vecchio's is one of the most breathtaking in the world.Can't visit it just 1day
Caterina, London,
I agree with aspects of this article having spent 5 weeks in Italy this summer. After Lago di Orta near Milan, I stopped off in Florence before catching a train to Orvieto. The place is truly beautiful but it has at theme park feeling in the summer with so many tourists. I suggest a winter visit.
Simon Hobson, Valencia, Spain
The crucial thing is about travel it depends on the unique specific circumstances, who your with, when you go, what mood your in....this article is like 1000s of others which loosely condems a city with an immense history because one ignorant traveller decided they were not interested...
G, Fort Lee, New Jersey
I think that the emphasis of the article is misplaced. The issue is not Florence but the impact of mass tourism on a location. Look to York to see the devastation. At least the Italians have tried to preserve their heritage. Oh and a Brit complaining about service and shabby town centres - duh.
Peter Russel, Toronto, Canada
Ah-Ah! This article is a joke, isn't it?
mario, Potenza, Itali
I know so many people here in London that say the exact same thing - I've yet to meet anyone who actually loves Florence. If you're comparing it to Rome then you're going to be letdown b/c Rome is fantastic.
Fabrizio, London, W11,
Oh finally, someone who shares my view! I tried to like Florence, really I did. I went several times in different seasons, but it just didn't captivate me. Everyone has their own taste and Florence wasn't my cup of tea. Art and architecture are great, but there are just no sparks for me.
Valerie, Ascoli Piceno,
Everywhere tourists corrode what attracted them. One can blame the travel sections and guides or the tourists´ dullness and herd instinct. Or high discretionary incomes and democracy.
Ciao
Krischan, recklinghausen, West-Germany
Florence - palaces, art and architecture that framed our civilization, culture that defined our world...... but hey we have to wait a few hours to compete with all the other tourists who want to see this wonder of the world. Why not go to the video arcade if your attention span is so short.
liz, etobicoke, canada
Heh, okay guys... as I'm living in Florence. I understand you. YES, there are lots of tourists. YES there are lines. YES the italians get a little tired on people. But, you missed the real Florence. You only saw what the tourists see. Next time, let me know and I'll take you to the best pasta place!
isabelle, Florence, Italy
I'm not overly keen on Florence either. There is so much to see in Italy that many amazing cities feel far less crowded and more enjoyable for it. I visited Padua and Trieste earlier this year and while I was far from the only tourist in those cities, there were no queues, no crowds and plenty to do
Briony, Sale,
Sorry Veronica.
In August, I stayed in a quiet flat at the back of the Medici Chapel. I walked straight in to the Academia - at four pm when most were leaving. I strolled into the Uffizi at 12 because I had reserved my ticket already.
Wonderful. I didn't work for the city, I made it work for me!
Arundel, South Coast, UK
Went to Rome in 2004 and Florence & Venice in 2005. Rome definitely blew me away. Venice was wet and smelly but a unique experience. As for Florence, I found it to be a thoroughly inspiring place, maybe because I was interested in the Medicis.
Rasan, London, UK
Absolutely agree. My wife and I are well-travelled throughout Italy and Florence remains one of the biggest disappointments. 4 individual charges in a single church and an annoying street photographer who lumbered into my wfe capped the visit. Really one to be avoided.
Simon Thomas, Lyon, France
Veronica, is because as most tourist you were there for a day or two and where not looking hard enough! I am sure as most tourists you also took a picture of the David outside of the Uffizi gallery. Wake up, the real one is inside!
By the way, what stunning place are you from?
Massimo, Firenze, Italy
Don't you know better to stay near the central train station and about the queues have you ever heard of booking in advance?
If you don't like Florence good, one less tourist in the way!
Kathy, London,
Ah, but compared to Pisa it is brilliant!!!
CAS, Leeds,
I was there in July 1985 and thought it was magical - the weather, people, history, fashion, views, etc.
I went again in October 2007 and was totally disappointed and agree with the article. Despite purchasing a fabulous Italian leather jacket I also came away wondering what all the fuss is about.
Jo, Sydney, Australia
Florence is overrun with tourists from April to October. The author should try visiting the City in the winter months, when although it's cold, Florence is blissfully free of tourists and queues. The City's inhabitants are friendlier too.
Ferris B, London, UK
I'm agree with Richard from Chicago. I was also in Florence in the 1980's. I completely loved it. The culture, history scenery, food, weather (it rained then too!). The Cathedral and Galleries were astounding. ITourists? was a tourist. Go with the flow people! You'll remember it better.
Lenny Lane, Calgary, Canada
Agree. We were there in January; spent a week in Tuscany and came home wondering what the fuss was about.
Visited Dresden, the Florence of the north in July - now that is a magnificent city!
Carys Davies, Bremen, Germany
For Annabella, well, if florentines are common people, Lucca people are certainly little minded ones...and you can't seriously compare Lucca with Florence....there are centuries of arts and history between them!
Caterina, London,
Hackney and Brixton, those are the best places!!!
Gaijin, London,
I loved Florence when we went there, but I understand how you feel about being disappointed by a city. I went to Paris years ago and struggled to like it.
Becca, Leeds, UK
Have to agree - did the Rome, Florence, Venice trip just a few weeks ago and Florence was by far the least interesting. It was also the only place of the three where the kids (15 and 11) were bored. Rome and especially Venice are truly magical places with entirely unique atmospheres.
Andrew Jarman, Seville, Spain
Please forward your impressions (about very basic, mainstream and banal activities) to many people like you so that who, like me, is living in the centre of this town from 30 years now, will have the possibility to profit easier of our city without millions of visitors each year !
serge, florence, italy
Brits,
go to the stone beach in Brighton, during one of your hot summer days, or stay in your safe multiracial council flats instead of travelling down here. We don't need people who can't appreciate beauty, art and well being. Less vomit and beer cans to clean up in our street after your passage..
marco, firenze,
How can you be a tourist and complain there are too many tourists? I live in Fucecchio half way between Florence and Pisa and Italians are the friendliest nation in Europe, and those of you who say you are uneasy, think about places I once called home -Reading, Porstmouth. Walk round these at night!
Sandy, Fucecchio, Italia
People who talk about a "heaving history" really shouldn't go to Florence.
Delphine, Oxford,
I went to Florence in October 2006, and I thought it was the most exquisitely beautiful & magical place I've ever been to!there was an amazing atmosphere, and i thought people were very friendly. We queued for an hour to see the David, but it was worth it. Shame on anyone who couldn't appreciate it!
Hannah, Sheffield,
Been there (February 06, lovely weather), done that and probably won't go back. Over rated.
Paul, Penzance, UK
Was there 2 weeks ago as part of a whistle stop 7 day tour of 7 cities. Uffizi was quiet - no queues at 4pm and that leaves plenty of time to see everything before closing. Try Sienna - brilliant
Glyn, Macclesfield, UK
I too was very dissapointed with Florence. It was nice as a view from the hilltop but inside the city, it was dirty, smelly and unfriendly. I admit that I visited in August but I will not revisit. Siena, San Gimignano and Lucca were much nicer (even Pisa was better).
Erica Thompson, Wokingham, UK
Here here, I have always found Italian cities generally display delusions of grandeur, dont even get me started on Rome...
Paul, London, UK
I live in Florence and you chose the worst time of year to visit. The best time is September/October, May/June. During July & August the city centre is hot, overcrowded and best avoided. Locals don't go near it! They're on holiday on the Italian coasts. A basic guide book would tell you that.
Laura, Florence, Italy
For Thiago. I don't think is about being a brit or not. Brits (I am not british by the way) are very open minded. I think the article is about the point of view of an individual person, whether you agree or not. Having said that, In my opinion the problem is the tone used in the article.
Alex, Manchester,
I have to agree with Annabella,
Forget Florence and stay in Lucca instead. We spent our honeymoon there last June and enjoyed every aspect to it.
We visited Florence for the day and came away extremely disappointed as it just couldn't compare.
Mark, Lancs
Mark Bevan, Lancaster, England
I felt the same when I went 10 years ago, at the height of summer. Having moved to Italy (Rome) since, I visited Florence again this January and my view completely changed. It was wonderful. Few tourists, just Florentines going about their business, and the winter sun illuminating the red domes.
Lucy Hill, Rome,
I fully agree with every word and can only second that motion......... Tuscany offers better and more beautiful locations like San Gimignano and Lucca, for a wonderful experience. the same goes for Pisa, where we decided to spend no more than 15 minutes. I've seen enough and would not return.
Karl Lechten, Madison, WISCONSIN, USA
I agree with you about Florence: in the end rewards are not as much as expectations. I would suggest you to go down to the bottom where the river Arno gets mitigated by the sea water, where you can admire the Miracle Square in all its glory and where the people are certainly friendlier. Thats Pisa!
Francesco, London,
I completely agree with this article. I was in Florence last week and simply didn't get it. The city is filthy with rubbish and graffiti. The historic buildings are swamped by cheap shops. The crowds of tourists were unbearable. The service was awful (despite speaking Italian). Won't return.
Larina, London, UK
So many Brits whinge about tourists when abroad. Apart from blind hypocrisy, I suppose it is a continuation of what George Mikes, the Hungarian author, observed about the British: they regard everyone else as a foreigner except the British themselves, even when abroad. Neither foreign nor tourists.
Thiago, Vigo, Spain
Do some research before you go, then! Staying near a train station is a no-no, in ANY Italian city (or anywhere for that matter!) and you can pre-book your visit to the Uffizi by calling up to a day before. The food is amazing and as for surly service, no wonder if the customer is so surly herself!
Emily, Cambridge,
You went at the wrong time of the year. Best month to visit is November (best prices, less tourists). You should also consider that Rome is much bigger than Florence and therefore inevitably it gets less crowded. I am Italian and, although I agree on some points the city itself is beautiful.
Alex, Manchester,
My boyfriend and I went over my birthday in August - stayed in a lovely hotel right on the Arno which we drove to (no problems), hotel took charge of the car, booked the Uffizi in advance and went for off the beaten track strolls which were deserted. We loved it. Definitely going back another day!
Kate, London,
Your mistake was going now. I last went in November, there are no queues, maybe as a result the shopkeepers were friendly, and the weather was the perfect antidote to Britain.
jb, W. Yorks., UK
Veronica, what you should have done was come to Le Marche and discover this unspoilt region. It is as beautiful as Toscana, with fewer tourists and at least 50% cheaper.
Patrick Houlihan, Cupramontana (AN), Le Marche, Italy
Veronica..Next time you go to Florence..Let them know your 'Canadian'...I've been there 5 times, with Family...Loved it..As for Rome...a whole bunch of rocks piled on top of each other....except for "The City"...I notice,most Brits in this message area, didn't like Florence....hmmm
MrTim, san marcos, U S of A
I couldn't agree more. I was there in July and it was such a shame about the overcrowding - but taking a leaf out of E M Forster's book 'A Room With a View' we headed up the valley side to Fiesole - no tourists whatsoever, amazing views of Florence itself and immensely improved the trip!
Tessa, Milland, uk
This article is rubbish,not Florence.I am Italian and I visited many times all the most exciting Italian cities: none beats Firenze.The whole experience,the Italian people there,their accent,the colours,the art,the food,the wines,the sense of Reinassance,its architecture,makes this city truly unique
Amleto, London, UK
I was there in 1971. No queues, no charges, just a few nice people wandering around staring in stunned silence at the beauty of the city of Florence. Glad I went then ! I was one of the lucky one's. Maybe the end of cheap travel might balance things out a bit ! Seems Florence is being strangled !
Mary York, York, UK
I completely agree. Although we went in Feb few years ago, when there were less tourists, out of Rome, Venice, Florence, it was Florence that was my least favorite. It didn't have the same wow factor to me that I had with Rome and Venice. The Pitti Palace was remarkable, but that was it for me.
Ann, Pasadena, USA
When do you go? July? August? It's obviously going to be heaving then, so what did you expect?
Everyone knows how crowded Florence is, especially around the Ufizzi and other tourist traps, didn't you read up on that before you went? Driving in an out - and parking - is mad, too
Peter, Tokyo,
Dreadful, foreboding, dark, surly...where have you been? London?
Fabio C, London, uk
Firenze is a common city and the FLORENTINES common people!
If you want to see the best of Tuscany come to LUCCA.
Ciao
Annabella
Annabella Marchi, Lucca, Tuscany
i rented a moped. much easier to get around. and yes, trying to speak the language makes a big difference
jogen, portsmouth, uk
The Uffizi is hardly a maze - it is laid out in chronological order from Giotto to Caravaggio, as any guidebook would have told you. It isn't even that big. It is one of the most moving and inspiring monuments to human creativity, though. Sorry you didn't get it.
harry palmer, london,
I totally disagree. I lived in Florence last spring for 4 months and fell in love with the city. It has a warm feeling, but there is still a lot to do and see. Also, the art and history of the city are amazing. You should visit when it is less crowded. It is far superior of any other city in Italy.
Taylor Stamm, WI, USA
It sounds like it's not the city that's dreadful, but the likes of you ruining it.
Juliet, Pamplona, Spain
I always wonder about people who complain of surly service whilst holidaying abroad . Did they , at any point , try and converse in the native language ? Thought not .
Nick Dixon, Sutton Coldfield, England
I agree too, i went round other areas in Italy and found that places like Sienna, Bergamo, Chianti, were much nicer and less hyped over. The restuarant we went to was over priced after shopping around, after dark you feel a bit uneasy. Florence as the title says, just isnt that great.
Ben Hess, Birmingham, England
We visited in 2005 and found a fabulous hotel, very friendly staff, small queues for the Uffizi and Galleria dell' Academia, great food, oh yes, and tourists by the score but that's par for the course in any city. Well worth a visit. Miss it and miss out on a real treat.
Sam, Lancs,
Completely agree...visited last July and wasn't impressed...evrywhere was packed with tourists! Could barely move...there was a gigantic queue into the Uffizi as well so didn't even see that! A beautiful city, but ruined by tourists. Visited Rome this summer, in July and it was fantastic!
John Kelly, Ipswich,
Too bad. I was there in 1987 and thought it was stunning. Looks like too many tourists have ruined it.
Richard, Chicago, USA
I visited Venice, Florence and Rome last year, but Florence was the least enjoyable of the three, in my opinion. Overcrowded and dirty, the sights left us feeling like we had missed something, hotel staff were surly and unhelpful and the overall experience disappointing.
Anne, Milton Keynes, UK