It doesn’t sound like the sort of place you’d take a blind date — The Atmosfera. In fact, it sounds more like a European weather satellite, or a suspect bar in Magaluf.

It’s neither of those things. I’m in Milan and about to have dinner — on board a vintage tram (the name is a play on ATM, the city’s transport company), while taking a 2.5hr trip around the sights. Which raises a number of questions. Such as: Does Milan have any sights? How do they cook dinner on a 90-year-old tram? And is there any atmosphere on Atmosfera?

When I tried to book as a solo diner, I was politely told that the experience works better for a couple. Indeed, on Valentine’s Day, they had to double the number of trips, such was the demand. A friend suggested I contact Francesca, a former chef, television producer and native Milanese, to make up my numbers.

The trams depart at 8pm from beside the grand, sparkling fountains of the Castello, where I received my first surprise: the make-up of our group. They were all Italian. Each tram seats 24 and, as far as I could gather, I was the only tourist among them.

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Francesca explained that the impetus for Atmosfera was the popularity of ATM’s party tramcars: you can hire a 1920s carriage for a drinks event, while touring the city’s tracks. So the next logical step, a dining car, was not intended as an international tourist attraction at all, but for local consumption.

The two vintage Carrelli trams eventually hove into view. The chef leant out from his position behind the driver in Atmosfera 2 and waved to his guests as it drew level with us. I sniffed when I noticed the bank of microwave ovens behind him. Francesca looked at me: “What did you expect? A wood-burning pizza oven?”

Inside, our streetcar turned out to be a masterpiece of ergonomics. The designers have shoehorned in a cloakroom, galley, generous-sized washroom, driver’s cab and two-dozen dining places, where a glass of prosecco was waiting for each of us, along with a starter. The set menu for £60 has to be pre-ordered, choosing from a fish, meat or vegetarian option. A bottle of wine per couple is included, as well as coffee. Be warned, the menu is written only in Italian.

After a light grilling from Francesca, the waiter admitted most of the meal had been prepared in the ATM kitchens, to be “finished” in the galley on board. Which is where the microwaves come in. As we pulled away with a chink of glass and rattle of cutlery, we tried the cold appetiser. Francesca wrinkled her nose as she bit into the golden sphere. “It’s a kind of phoney arancini — leftover risotto, deep fried as rice balls with saffron. There’s saffron in this, but this isn’t rice. Is it?” No, it appeared to be sawdust. We reached for the prosecco.

Things improved considerably: baby squid and black rice was the real deal, a duck lasagne was good and juicy, and a medallion of filetto di maialino (“piglet”, translated Francesca) was a substantial, well-cooked piece of meat. Desserts were pear poached in red wine — a little tame — and monte bianco, a pyramid of whipped cream on a meringue base (“Not traditional, but that’s okay”) filled with chopped chestnuts.

And Francesca’s verdict? “It’s no more than you’d pay in an ordinary city-centre restaurant, the food is nicely presented and properly Italian, the atmosphere is very friendly and fun, and you have an adventure, too.”

And what of the sights? Well, Milan is no Rome or Florence, but as an orientation to the city, a 2.5hr trip on Atmosfera is highly effective. You pass by or close to the main attractions: Castello Sforzesco, Santa Maria delle Grazie (home of da Vinci’s Last Supper), the monumental cemetery, the giant Stazione Centrale (Italy’s second-largest railway station), and La Scala, and there are fleeting views of the huge multi-spired Duomo and that soaring cathedral of consumerism the Galleria Emanuele. You also sample parts of town where tourists rarely venture, such as Milan’s small Chinatown (who knew?), the Orwellian Palace of Justice, the Naviglio Grande — one of Milan’s canals, where, in summer, restaurants and jazz clubs set up on barges — and the bustling nightlife of Sempione. There was also a 10-minute stop outside a nondescript pharmacy of no discernible merit. Why?

Turns out it was a scheduled cigarette break for gasping diners and staff. This is Italy, after all.

- Rob Ryan travelled to Milan as a guest of British Airways and Four Seasons

Travel brief

Atmosfera: reserve your places at least two weeks in advance, by e-mailing atmosfera@p2000.it. You pay on board, after the dinner. Visit www.atm-mi.it/ATM/eng/.

Getting there: there are flights to Milan from 20 UK airports. Closest to the city is Linate (10 miles away), served by British Airways (0844 493 0787, ba.com), EasyJet (easyjet.com) and Alitalia (0870 225 5000, www.alitalia.co.uk). BA also flies to Malpensa (29 miles), as do Flybe (0871 700 2000, flybe.com), EasyJet (easyjet.com) and Alitalia. Ryanair (0871 246 0000, ryanair.com), Jet2 (jet2.com) and BMI Baby (bmibaby.com) all fly to Bergamo (30 miles).

Where to stay: the Four Seasons (00 39-02 77088, fourseasons.com) is a converted convent set around a beautiful courtyard in the middle of the highest of high-end shopping streets, which is why a double costs £575, B&B, at weekends.

The Hotel Cavour (02 620001, hotelcavour.it), on the edge of the arty Brera district, often has good weekend offers; doubles from £135, B&B. For something more unusual, try Antica Locanda dei Mercanti (02 085 4080, locanda.it), with interesting individual rooms, some with four-posters, all with fresh flowers. The standard rate is £210, but there are offers as low as £175, including cooked breakfast served in the rooms.

There are few cheap options in the centre of town, but just outside there’s the grey tower of Hotel AC Milan (02 2042 4211, www.ac-hotels.com). It’s nothing to do with David Beckham’s new home, but is a stylish contemporary option, on the No 3 tram route to the Duomo; from £109, including breakfast and complimentary minibar.

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