Venice is wonderful and Venice is unique, yes, but it is expensive and, especially in summer, can be very hot and smelly.

One way round these disadvantages is to follow the old example of Venice’s aristocrats, who had grand pads on the mainland and would ride into town by barge.

Today the Veneto’s excellent road and rail networks mean that you can travel rather faster, popping in for the day to see the sights and ride on a traghetto (the poor people’s gondola) and then retire to the cool comfort of your holiday home.

There are a number of historical towns nearby to choose from, each with plenty of attractions of its own to entertain you if you want to give the Venice crowds a miss.

Peter Ackroyd's Venice

In an extract from his new book, Venice: Pure City, the author turns his gaze upon Italy’s most seductive city

• Peter Ackroyd: from the Thames to Venice

The key to unseen Venice

The city of the gondola provides constant inspiration for writing and art, says Roma Tearne

• Sail your way through Venice

A houseboat holiday in Venice

Les Webb and family find the perfect escape from the crush of St Mark's Square - by taking to the water

• Learn to be a gondolier in Venice

Related Links

• Misty beauty of autumn days in Venice

• Get a room in... Venice

This top ten covers a range of accommodation, from reasonably priced hotels to self-catering flats – for families and groups larger than two renting a flat can prove a big saving. Cooking your own meals bypasses the costs of eating out, and brings the bonus of shopping in local markets.

PADUA

It’s a half-hour train ride from here into Venice, with trains going every 10-20 minutes. where sights include the famous Giotto frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel and the Basilica of St Antony.

1) The Catai B&B is in a comfortable and modern apartment full of fascinating artefacts from the owner’s travels in the Far East: she speaks good English and can offer useful guidance on Padua and the region. The apartment has a large terrace and a spacious living/dining room. It lies in a quiet part of town ten minutes’ walk north of the station and 15 minutes’ walk from the old centre of Padua.

Details 0039 049 8643394 www.bbtibetanhouse.it. Rooms for two to four people. From €70 a night, €400 a week for a double room, and €110 a night for a family room.

2) The San Bonifacio self-catering apartment has three en-suite bedrooms spread over two floors, with a well-equipped kitchen, air-conditioning, wifi, a terrace and private parking. Bicycles are provided to speed you round the city – the apartment is very centrally positioned, just north of the Basilica of St Antony and a seven-minute tram ride from the station.

Details Via Gaspara Stampa 23, Padua. Sleeps five. www.holiday-rentals.co.uk. From €650 a week.

3) If you have a large group how about renting the whole wing of an old mansion? The San Bonifacios also rent out a wing of the Villa Mandriola, their family mansion on the southern edge of town. With six magnificent bedrooms, this is the ‘modern’ wing of the villa – built in the 18th century.

Times recommends

• Britain's top 10 New Year's Day brunches
• Mozambique's lost islands
• The best things to see and do in 2010