I first went to Damascus in search of history and was far from disappointed. But, to my surprise, I found a far richer city than I had expected, one full of warmth and welcome.

This should have been no surprise. Damascus, with a history stretching back 7,000 years, is the oldest continuously inhabited city on Earth. A recent book, Syria: Through Writers’ Eyes offers a revealing perspective. Several Englishwomen fell passionately in love with the city: Isabel Burton, Freya Stark and Brigid Keenan. They see Damascus as a sensuous place, where architecture has an almost sexual power.

“To my mind,” writes Keenan, “Damascus is like a veiled woman who reveals nothing of herself on the outside and keeps all her beauty for those privileged to be close to her...”

Damascus lies on one of the ancient routes connecting China and India with Africa, the Middle East and Europe. Through its markets passed the wealth of the world – silk, carpets, precious metals – and along with them arts, ideas and culture. The city has come under the rule of Arabs, Romans, Christianity and Islam. But one thing has remained constant – trade, and it was trade that took me to the city. I wanted to see what survived of the ancient markets.

Early one morning I made my way to the old city and, passing through the cacophony of the modern metropolis, reached one of the ancient gates. These still mark main points of entry to old Damascus. I had two targets, which tell the tale of trade. One was Straight Street and the other the souk of al-Hamidiyeh.

Two thousand years ago Straight Street was one of the most famous thoroughfares in the world. Then it was Via Recta, the main street of Roman Damascus.

I entered through one of the city gates, Bab Sharqi – built by the Romans in the 3rd century. The second half of the street is dominated by the Midhat Pasha Souk. When I arrived the souk was heaving with life: vehicles loaded with merchandise pushing slowly past shops and shoppers.

Almost parallel to Straight Street is the souk of al-Hamidi-yeh. In the sensuous tradition of Damascus, the vaulted entrance to the souk was dark, mysterious and womb-like. As I peered into the cavernous opening, I could just make out rows of buildings on a gradually curving street, roofed over with a late 19th-century vault through which light occasionally sparkled. All was incredibly organic and romantic.

I wandered along this street transfixed. Each shop housed a world of activity and produce – many selling damask, a cotton fabric with silk thread embroidery that is the traditional product of the city.

The light filtering into the narrow street, the call to prayer echoing from afar, the bustling people and the intriguing goods on display wove an intoxicating spell. As I mingled with the crowds it became strikingly clear that Damascus, despite its ancient origin, is no mere museum city. Here the past is very much alive. I saw the riches of the Middle East on display much as they would have been 1,000 years ago. It was a haunting vision, the past compellingly present.

Walking through the al-Hamidiyeh souk also offered stupendous architectural theatre. Suddenly, the dark street curved and opened into bright sunlight, with the heroic remains of a classical colonnade and a portico defining one side of a small square and leading to the huge Roman temple of Jupiter.

The story of these buildings tells much of the history of Damascus. The Romans built their temple on the site of 9th-century BC temple to the god Haddad. In its turn, this was converted into a Christian basilica dedicated to St John the Baptist and then, after the Muslim conquest of Damascus, transformed into the huge Ummayad mosque.

The outer walls of the temple survived all these transformations. The exterior is breath-taking, the gravitas of Rome merging with the sensuous fragrance of the Orient. The interior is stunning. The Roman wall now surrounds a huge court, its polished paving sparkling white in the sun.

Here people come not just to pray, but to relax, to meet, to escape the pressures of worldly life. In one corner I observed a family having a picnic; they smiled a welcome as I walked past.

Significantly, the Christian phase in the building’s history is celebrated rather than ignored – a testament to the tolerance that characterises early Islam. There is a minaret dedicated to Jesus. The main prayer hall of the mosque is dedicated to St John the Baptist. Inside this hall all was tranquil, with red carpets lining the floor, groups of people sitting and talking quietly, and children rolling around.

The mosque says much about modern Damascus. The city is friendly, and in the admirable Arab tradition, visitors are made welcome. Syria may be at loggerheads with the West, but there are few places in the world where I have felt safer or more welcome.

My Damascus adventure was not over, however. I left the mosque by a door near the tomb of the great Salah al-Din – who delivered the terminal blow to Crusader ambitions in the Holy Land – and plunged back into the world. A late lunch was demanded and I knew where to go. I made my way through a warren of narrow streets and courts and found al-Sawwaf Street. Ahead of me was a small door set in a plain wall. I stooped to enter. I was stepping in to one of the wonders of Damascus, the rich, beautiful and secret courtyard houses – plain from the outside, yet glorious within. Built as a private house in 1737, it is now a restaurant called Jabri House.

As I sat in the large courtyard, next to a fountain, my table was laid with delicious fresh food. Seated within the ornamented courtyard walls, next to the cooling fountain, with the sounds of the city only a distant hum, it was obvious why so many visitors fall in love with this miraculous ancient city.

Where to stay...
James Hider

Boutique hotels in the old city:

The Beit alMamlouka is hidden away in a lane in Bab Touma, the Christian quarter. The 300-year-old building has been restored to its Ottoman glory by May Mamarbachi, an expert in Islamic art. A beautiful courtyard offers refuge, while the eight rooms have beds covered with embroidered blankets. Breakfast includes homemade rose jam and pistachio-stuffed aubergines. Beit alMamlouka, opposite Hamman Bakri, Bab Touma (00 963 11 543 04 45/46, www.almamlouka.com). Double B&B from £75.

There is not even a sign marking the entrance to the Talisman, just two ornate lamps and a buzzer. Stooping through the doorway, you stumble on a palatial court with a fountain, and sweeping walls of dusky Damascus roses. The Talisman has 17 rooms with plasma-screen televisions, and a divan where guests can relax with a cup of sweet flower tea. Talisman, 116 Tal El-Hijara Street (11 541 53 79, www.hoteltalisman.net) Double B&B from about £87.

The Dar AlYasminis a former Ottoman merchant’s palace just off Straight Street. Lacking the intimacy of the Mamlouka or the pizzazz of the Talisman, it still manages to capture the Ottoman charm of 300 years ago. Dar AlYasmin, Bab Touma (11 544 33 80/11 541 80 64, www.daralyasmin.com). Double B&Bs from £58.

Where to steam...
James Hider

Steam baths: There are dozens of Turkish steam baths tucked away in the lanes of the old city.

The oldest is the hamman Nur al-Din, behind the Azem Palace, where, for a few pounds, you can steam the old city’s dirt off your skin. Afterwards, in the ornate basilica that opens off the entry hall, a steward swaddles you in fresh towels and a blanket and feeds you glasses of tea. Hammam Nur al-Din, Souk al-Bazuriye, between the Ummayad mosque and Straight Steet, men only. (No appointment needed.)

The al-Malekh al-Zaher hammam, near the Ummayad mosque. For about £15, you can have a facial, shave and haircut in the stone divan, then plunge into the marbled steam rooms for a scrub down and massage, before chilling out with a glass of tea to the tinkling of the hammam fountain under the painted wooden dome of the main hall. Bliss. Hammam al-Melekh al-Zaher next to al-Zaheriya library behind the castle (11 222 53 30, malkzaher@hotmail.com), women’s day Monday 9am-5pm.

Where to eat...
Dan Cruickshank

Bakdach ice-cream shop, al-Hamidiyeh souk: the best ice-cream parlour in the city.

Jabri House, al-Sawwaf Street: Good for traditional dishes such as falafel, meze, and, if you’re feeling brave, sheep’s testicles and brains.

Umayyad Palace, Kabakibieh Street: Traditional, with tables set around an open space, in which dervishes whirl to entertain the diners. Pleasant and atmospheric, but one for tourists.

Abu al-Azz, near al-Hamidi-yeh souk: Often referred to as the most popular restaurant in the city. Rich in atmosphere and with live Arab music.

Need to know

Steppes Travel (01285 880980, www.steppestravel.co.uk) has a ten-day trip to Syria, which includes key historical sites, Aleppo, Palmyra and Damascus (staying at the Talisman hotel). The trip costs £1,495pp, including flights, B&B, guides and private transport.

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