Stephen Bleach
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There’s something fishy going on here. I’m standing in the Lost Chambers of Atlantis, staring at what, I have been gravely assured, are the submerged ruins of Plato’s ancient, doomed civilisation.
The last time I saw daylight, however, I could have sworn I was on the Palm, an island off the coast of Dubai that I don’t think Plato had heard of, being as they started building it only seven years ago. You don’t have to be a Time Team presenter to know it doesn’t quite add up.
The Lost Chambers are the star attraction of the Atlantis, a new, 1,539-room mega-resort that will open to the public on September 24. Last week, I was the first British journalist to take a look around the near-finished article, and I was gobsmacked. It’s one of the most impressive and ambitious resorts I’ve seen. It’s certainly the most ludicrous.
So ludicrous, in fact, it’s almost heroic. It takes a certain damn-the-torpedoes guts to spend £750m on a premise this self-evidently daft: the “discovery” of a 10,000-year-old civilisation that never existed, on an island that’s still being finished. But we’ll get to that in a minute. For now, the impressive stuff.
You approach Atlantis up the “trunk” of the Palm Jumeirah, as it’s formally known. In sheer engineering terms, it’s a boggling thing. Where there was nothing but sea five years ago, they’ve built a three-mile-long island with fronds radiating from the centre. Right at the crest, in prime position, the 395ft towers of Atlantis emerge slowly through the heat haze.
From the outside, the architecture is a bit odd. It’s supposed to look “Atlantean”, which seems to mean a lot of fish motifs, but they couldn’t resist throwing in a few other elements: they’ve ended up with Peter Jackson fantasy meets arabesque meets Hilton high-rise, all painted a slightly queasy frozen-prawn pink. I’m not sure it’s what Plato had in mind.
Go in and it gets odder still. The vast lobby is dominated by Dale Chihuly’s 35ft-high glass sculpture, which looks like cascading multicoloured spaghetti. There are garish “mythical” murals, and they’ve covered a good deal of the acres of floor with a turquoise-and-yellow swirly carpet – sea and shells, I think, though it’s hard to tell.
Step off that carpet and you’re in the serene and genuinely stylish spa, or David Rockwell’s sensational bamboo and wood design for the Nobu restaurant. It’s like that all over. The avenues and halls go on and on, mid1980s Dallas styling around this corner, cutting-edge contemporary around that – the most expensive design identity crisis in history.
The food is as ambitious as the rest of it. There are 17 places to eat: Giorgio Locatelli, the best Italian chef in London, has a trattoria here, and they’ve drafted in Michel Rostang from Paris and Santi Santamaria from Spain. That’s seven Michelin stars right there.
What about the rooms? The standard ones are a good size, high-spec and pretty bland, which is something of a relief. For more drama, you can always go for the Lost Chambers suites: the bedrooms look out through huge underwater picture windows into the resort’s 11m-litre lagoon, stocked with sharks, rays,angel-fish, trevallies and more, in dense, multicoloured shoals.
Fine for romantics, as long as you don’t mind a fishy audience – though the sight of the rays gliding past is so mesmerising, you might not get round to anything energetic.
If money’s no object, you’ll want the Bridge Suite, which spans the archway between the two towers. A British family are the first bookers, paying £45,000 for three nights: for that, they get three bedrooms, four staff and a gold-leafed dining table seating 18. Not the food to go on it, though – that price is B&B.
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sonds like there's a lot of jealous of dubai people out there.if the architecture was actually middle east it would be gracious.i doubt very much the arab world has anything to learn from others in the field of building designs. incidently,what is the origin of modern architecture??
bair l., Toronto, CANADA
visited the atlantis hotel three weeks ago when staying at le meridien in dubai. looked fab but very very impersonal and very very busy. a tourist attraction at the moment and alot of security around. guests needed passes at all times. Stunning architecture.
cathy, leeds, england
How long before this is the second lost city of Atlantis? Dubai appears totally unsustainable when the oil runs dry. Until then they seem hell-bent on massive consumption. A dot of execess in a world that is battening down the hatches in fear of ever greater financial & environment storms.
Roland, London, UK
Dubai is an economic train wreck & filled w/ development after thoughts- never mind the civil rights issues, natural limitations like climate, etc. The emperor (in this case sheik) has no clothes. Go now & see the garish opulence before it's bankrupt and desolate. Do the math-it is unsustainable.
Nadine, Florida, U.S.A.
Just to let you know, this hotel now has a Whale Shark. It was supposed to be allowing the shark to recuperate but it has since said they have no intention of releasing the shark back to the wild. Whale Sharks do not survive in captivity.
Iain Clydesdale, Dubai, UAE
I am staying at the Atlantis at the end of this month with 3 friends and we cant wait. We are so excited to be the first guests in this remakable hotel. Hope this fire damage will be refurbished on time!
Raj, surrey, uk
Tania from Wales asked if the food will be expensive. Michelin starred chefs? Do the math.
Dan, Dubai,
I bet it will be expensive to eat at the most modest restaurant. we are going for two weeks next April. Spent three weeks three years ago at the Atlantis, Bahamas. That was great but it had a huge casino - this one won't and also the harbour with all the yachts and bling at the Bahamas.
Shirley Lever, Edgware, England
And who are you to say that Atlantis never existed. Perhaps you may like to take a copy of Atlantis the dark continent by Paul Williamson & Linda Braithwaite on your next holiday for some informative reading!
Karen Dabrowska, London, UK
due to go to the atlantis hotel in dubai in march cant wait to go but a bit dubious on how much i will paying to eat there does anyone know how much the food will cost at this hotel just need to know if i have to take out a second mortgage!!!
tania, caerphilly, wales
I am an expat living and working in Dubai... you take the good with the bad (and the ugly, in this case). Someone once said "less is more" - well, Dubai's version of this is "more is not nearly enough". Welcome to Atlantis.
Terry Ouwerkerk, Dubai
Terry Ouwerkerk, Dubai, UAE
"FABULOUS WHEN FINISHED" That's what thery used to say about Kuwait when I worked there from '79 to '82. Is it "finished" yet?
Bill Peter, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Im counting the days the visit it. Dubai is really an amazing place. i love this city
Daniela, Qormi, Malta
Darren - clearly you didn't work on the projects, as I'm sitting in my flat in Dubai, it's 10am and the temperature is already past 40 degrees. It doesn't magically stay cool between 12-4 and the majority of construction companies pay no attention to the rule anyway.Workers are treated appallingly.
JB, Dubai, UAE
http://www.atlantisthepalm.com
"In Dubai, cultures co-exist in harmony to provide a welcoming and safe environment."
"Anyone holding an Israeli passport will be denied a visa and access to the UAE. Anyone with an Israeli stamp in their passport will be denied a visa and access to the UAE."
R Bryan, Naperville,
Amazing. Dubai clearly leads the world!
Adam, London, UK
I've never got beyond the transfer hall of Dubai Airport. We were thinking of spending a few days in Dubai in October but the more I read about resorts like this, the less interested I become. It sounds like Las Vegas-by-the-sea.
Rich, Leeds, UK
Interesting investment - built on the Palm an artificial island complex - no concern then about global warming or rising sea levels? What do they know that we dont?
C Williams, Scotland,
Credit crunch? What credit crunch?
KR, London, UK
Do they pipe Donovan 24/7 through all the lobbies, lifts & halls?
"Way down, under the ocean...."
Eugene, heidelberg, germany
Lets get a few 'known facts' straight, shall we KAY?
1/ Yes their salary's are measly to western standards, but compared to what they get paid in their own country, it is in fact very good!
2/ Dehydration? Work is banned from 12-4pm in the summer months!
I worked on the project 'I know the facts'
Darren - Dubai, Dubai,
Let's hope the service at Dubai Atlantis is better than the service was in the Bahamas. Bahamas was the epitome of poor taste and chav excess, and I'm sure Dubai will be no different. BTW, stayed at the Meridien DXB last Dec for the 7s. Overlooking Atlantis, it appeared to be listing!
Cally Ellis, Manama, Bahrain
Arab world, welcome to Vegas in the ocean.
Charles, Seattle, USA
I don't think it's anti-Arab to say from my recent experience in Dubai, staying with locals, that Indian workers get treated, and paid, appallingly. In terms of the hotel designs, a friend coined it well saying: "In Dubai they never say no to ideas, no matter how nuts they are."
Emma, London,
Yeah, Dubai is over the top, but that's what makes it Dubai. And it is fabulous - no matter what you say. It is sheer escapism at its very best. Loved it. If you want something less then settle for Blackpool!
Olivia Thompson, Cape Town, South Africa
quite a bit of anti-Arab sentiment in these comments. scary lot you are.
temi, London,
It's identical to the one that dwarfs Paradise Island (PI), Bahamas, which has been around for a decade. PI was formerly known as "hog island" which sounds a bit ironic now..
Yvonne, Nassau, Bahamas
So, to all the revious comments, we in the UK are the sole arbiters of good taste? One only has to go down any town in the UK to refute this. Is this resort OTT and expensive - undoubtably. Will it be fun - yes. Can the leftie moaners afford it - probably not. Hmm, maybe this is why they hate it.
Mark Chisholm, Dereham, UK
I am sure the decadent 'Jet Set' will be rushing to spend time in a place where you can pick jail time as easy as loosing yourself to passion - If you build it they will come - for a short period perhaps, but there is no long term future in that area, it's too restrictive to be a true holiday zone
Winston Smith, Edinburgh, UK
It's not Arabs, Matt. It's Sol Kerzner - and he's South African.
He built a similar monstrosity in The Bahamas.
It really defines bad taste.
R. Bouchier, Angers, France
When it comes to lack of taste and style, the Arabs put even the Russians to shame..
Matt, Berlin, Germany
Tell me how much blood, sweat and measly salaries paid to the foregin workers this took? Known fact that the Arabs do not treat their workers with the respect they deserve. Not taking into consideration the number of workers that due to dehydration fall of these building sites and sadly die.
Kay, Bucks,
I am living and typying this message from the "trunk" right now. lets get something straight, the place is a construction site. they have the habit of showing u maps and pictures of what the place will look like. iBut have no doubt that the palm will be fabulous and extremely exclusive wen finished.
Mohamad , london,