THE ski resorts of Iran are unlikely to make it into the brochures of British ski tour operators anytime soon. But they have been gaining recognition among powder seekers, with shots of untouched Iranian off-piste splashed increasingly across the pages of ski magazines.

Of the 20 or so ski areas in the Islamic republic, the most popular are those in the Alborz mountains, close to the capital, Tehran. Inaugurated in 1969, Dizin is the busiest and, although it boasts the most lifts of any Iranian resort, facilities are still basic by Western standards: three gondolas, two chairlifts, eight draglifts and two hotels.

Neighbouring Shemshak is smaller and quieter but has the better off-piste terrain. As Iranians seldom venture off-piste, powder lines are there for the taking, just a short hike from the top of the main chairlift. Other areas with chairlifts include Ab Ali and Darbandsar; draglifts are the norm elsewhere.

The Alborz, wedged between Tehran and the Caspian Sea, enjoys a variable climate that can result in heavy falls of snow one day, blue skies and melting temperatures the next. January and February are the coldest months and the most reliable, but powder is never guaranteed. Visitors heading off-piste should wear transceivers and know how to use them as there is no mountain rescue in the Western sense.

Strictly enforced Islamic law means that no alcohol is available and women are required to wear headscarves. Female European travellers have reported positive experiences but note that in Dizin there are separate lift lines for men and women.

The local skiers are extremely enthusiastic and eager to socialise over a cup of tea or a shishe (hookah). Their excitement and desire to share the slopes with visitors is both uplifting and refreshing.



Iran Ski Federation: www.skifed.ir. UK-based Persian Voyages: www.persianvoyages.com, can arrange visas, transport, guides and accommodation.

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