Krak de Chevaliers

The crusaders besieged in Krak de Chevaliers must have played many a game of hide and seek. There’s the secret passageway that runs behind the castle’s ramparts, the enormous oven that cooked for 2000 men and the carved latrines with holes that drop down to the ground below.

Of course, the knights in question probably accorded more importance to its strength as a fortress. The ancient structure has only been captured once in a millennia of history and then it was by trickery rather than force.

A paradise for children and modern day adventurers, the popular tourist destination also offers treasures for the more archeologically minded. There are delicately engraved Latin verses, a Gothic loggia, symbols of Richard the Lion Heart and some of the best views in Syria. All for a well worth it £150 (Syrian).

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You can reach Krak in just over an hour by car from Hama. It’ll take a full day to explore but on the way home, drop in at the nearby monastery of St George.

Our dragon-slaying patron saint was brought back to Britain by the crusaders. Icons of him in his original habitat adorn the wall of the 13th century church here. Although there are only two monks remaining, a handful of helpers will happily show you around the place for a small donation.

Aleppo

Aleppo lives and breathes commerce. A stop on the Silk Road for many years, it still offers souks famous throughout the world for their variety, bustle and sheer noise. Whether you want camel liver or a lurid pink wedding dress, you’re sure to find it in the backstreets here.

Don’t try to navigate your way around the densely packed roads. Instead follow the crowd and remember to haggle before pulling out that wallet.

The shopping is the main attraction for many Aleppo tourists but try to make time for a trip to the citadel. Co-ordinate your visit with the call to prayer – you’ll hear it bouncing from minaret to minaret across the city.

Follow this up with a gin and tonic at the sadly faded Baron’s hotel where Agatha Christie, TE Lawrence and Teddy Roosevelt all slaked their thirst. The marvellous old clerk will show you their rooms, fondly bidding goodnight to ‘Agatha’ as he softly closes the door.

Some of the best sights in Aleppo are free. A wander off the main souk will take you to the ancient olive soap factory. Ask the owner and he’ll give you a presentation on how the soap is made. He may use Power point but the cakes are still cut by a contraption that resembles a toboggan on knives.

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