Close enough for a long weekend, but so utterly different from the usual short-break destinations, Morocco proved ideal for a break. I returned home wanting far more after my brief, but packed visit.

STAYING IN MARRAKESH

My introduction to Morocco was warm and welcoming. Tucked in the back streets of Marrakesh is Les Borjs de la Kasbah, one of the city's riad hotels.

Riads are smaller and more intimate than ordinary hotels and enclose cool and peaceful courtyards where guests can escape from the heat and noise of the city. Les Borjs was built recently but manages to look old and authentic, with distressed tiles on the floors and traditional Moroccan shutters on the windows.

Revving up in Morocco

More used to metal roads in Sussex, John Naish takes an off-road biking tour of the Atlas Mountains and Sahara

Taking the train to Marrakesh

It's greener and the scenery is better: Anna Shepard takes the train, not the plane, to Marrakesh

BACKGROUND

• Will Morocco be a bargain in 2009?

• How to haggle in Marrakesh

• Can we get currency before we get to Morocco?

• Can we take a toddler to Morocco?

• Is Morocco no fun during Ramadan?

Related Links

• The 8 best restaurants in Marrakesh?

The staff were never less than friendly and charming and one waiter even got up at 4.30am to make sure we were fed and watered before one of our early-morning excursions.

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HAGGLING

The souks of Marrakech are, of course, a must. Separated into different areas selling antiques, carpets, spices, leather goods, as well as herbs, hand-woven baskets and so much more, they're huge and a little daunting to the uninitiated. The best place to start is at the alley opposite Café de France on Djemaa el-Fna, Marrakech's main square and the heart of the city.

I tried out my haggling skills, but it was obvious from the start that I'm not that good and the stall-holders knew it - thankfully our guide was skilled at fending off over-enthusiastic traders. The marketplace is a riot of colour, smells and noise and it's difficult not to succumb to its temptations - especially the potions found at the herbalist, or the brightly-coloured carpets, leather slippers and bags.

Tips:

The souk is open every day, 9am to 7 or 8pm, or 11am to 4pm on a Friday (when some stalls are closed all day). They're at their liveliest from 4 to 5pm as the day cools and Marrakchis go for their early evening stroll. While guides are good to fend off unwanted attention, bear in mind that when you do buy someting, the price will be a little higher to include the guide's commission.

A guided tour and a lesson in the art of haggling costs £20 per person through Cadogan Holidays, based on two people, including transport and guide. A longer tour, taking in the Koutoubia mosque, Menara gardens, Saadian tombs and the Bahia Palace cost from £85 per person with CityDiscovery.com

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