Why go? When you walk into the medina at Fez, you step back centuries — into an exotic, chaotic labyrinth of lanes that has changed little since 1200. Old Fez (Fes el-Bali) is threaded together by almost 10,000 alleys — a figure straight from an Arabian Nights tale. And they’re too narrow for cars: instead, people and the odd pack animal stream through higgledy-piggledy, high-sided streets.

Fez hasn’t been feasible as a city break until now, but the new nonstop flights mean it will certainly join Marrakesh as a superexotic short-haul destination. It will be some time before Fez gathers the cachet of Marrakesh, but go there now and you’ll find that it has all of the energy, all of the mystery and an even bigger medina — but amazingly few tourists.

Once you’re inside the ramparts, trust in serendipity rather than any map, and within minutes you’ll be wandering through scented spice souks, past elaborate mosaic-backed water fountains and into beautifully restored mansions. You don’t have to be intrepid to holiday in Fez, but it’s about as big a culture shock as you can get from a flight of less than four hours.

The sights: the best views of the city are from the decayed footsteps of the Merenid Tombs or from the Borj Nord. Either vantage point is a perfect place to marvel at the tightly packed houses of the medina and pick out the minarets of the famous 9th-century mosques.

The Bab Boujeloud gate, one of 14 entry points to the medina, takes you down the Talaa Kebira lane and past the Medersa Bou Inania (an Islamic school, and the apogee of 14th-century Merenid architecture), the Henna Souk and the Nejjarine Museum.

The restoration work on the Nejjarine caravanserai, or merchant hostel, is stunning (entry £1.25). There is a pleasant cafe on the roof, with good views and a relaxed atmosphere. The other museum of note is the Dar Batha Museum (Place de L’Istiqlal; entry £1.25), which houses an excellent display of white and cobalt-blue patterned ceramics, jewellery and ancient astronomical instruments.

The 7,000-year-old tradition of leather-making continues much as it always has in the tanneries. The many mud-walled vats of colour look like a giant’s paint palette, and men and children graft away, up to their waists in powerful dyes.

Fes el-Jdid (“Fez the new”) is a 13th-century new town. It contains the 80-acre Royal Palace. It’s private, but even the front door is worth a look — a gateway of grand arches covered in exquisite inlays and mosaics. Nearby is the mellah, or old Jewish quarter, with a cemetery, finely decorated windows and the little Ibn Danan synagogue, which has been well restored.

Fez remains an important centre for craftsmanship, and exports its wares all over Morocco and beyond. Look out for rugs and carpets, bed throws, leatherware, jewellery, antiques, woodcarving, mosaics and inlay work. Outside the medina, to the east, is the Quartier de Poterie (32 Aïn Nobki, Route Sidi Hrazem), where you will be given a tour of the small pottery and huge shop, which sells excellent plates, jugs and mosaic tables.

As the sun sets, do as the locals do and promenade on Avenue Hassan II. A broad, tree-lined boulevard, it’s alive with activity, and has many cafes and a few bars.

The son et lumière show (£6; April-November) takes place up on a hill that overlooks the curve of the medina. The 45-minute show uses lasers, fountains and images projected onto the walls of the castle. They even manage to arc-light the entire medina at one point, which alone is worth the price of the ticket.

The excursion: less than an hour’s drive away is the imperial city of Meknes, known as the Versailles of Morocco for its showy 17th-century monuments, built by Sultan Moulay Ismail. It also has an excellent medina. It’s easily combined in a day trip with Volubilis, 20 miles north of Meknes — a ruined Roman city overlooking an expansive valley.

Where to stay: the Palais Jamaï (Bab Guissa, 00 212-55 634331) is a grand luxury hotel. Formerly a sultan’s palace, it has an excellent pool, lovely gardens and sumptuous decor in the public spaces, the restaurants and the rooms in the old wing. Doubles start at £166.

For a more intimate experience, chose a converted town house, or riad. Most romantic is Riad Maison Bleue (2 Place de L’Istiqlal; 55 741873, www.maisonbleue.com), sister property of the more formal La Maison Bleue. It has a beautiful courtyard with tangled greenery, a small pool and a superb terrace. Doubles start at £177.

Riads can be cheaper without compromising on atmosphere. Riyad Shéhérazade (23 Arsat Bennis Douh; 55 741642, www.sheheraz.com; doubles from £75) has a grand mosaic courtyard and a small pool; the excellent Ryad Mabrouka (25 Derb El Miter; 55 636345, www.ryadmabrouka.com; doubles from £66) has a lovely little garden, a pool, a roof terrace and friendly staff. Or try Riad Louna (21 Derb Serraj; 55 741985, www.riadlouna.com; doubles from £28), which has nice rooms and a terrace.

Where to eat: the most atmospheric place is La Maison Bleue (see above; 55 636052), offering a sumptuous but pricey feast for the senses in an intimate courtyard; menus start at £31, including drinks. Book ahead.

Inside the medina are many “palace restaurants” in restored houses. Restaurant Asmae (4 Derb Jeniara; 55 741210) is less fussy than most, and serves good set menus on two floors; from £7.50. Or try the Vizir Palace (35 Derb Touil Blida; 55 635546) or Dar Saada (21 Souq el-Attarine; 55 637370), both with main courses from £5.

Just outside Bab Boujeloud is a clutch of eateries. Either take the courageous option and grab a kebab (of indeterminate meat) for about 60p from one of the tiny alley stalls, or climb the narrow stairs of Restaurant La Kasbah. It’s a good meeting place and has fine views of the gate and rooftops; main courses start at £2.

Getting around: inside the medina, the only option is walking. Around the periphery and between the old and new town, bright-red petits taxis are metered and cheap — most journeys cost less than £1, though fares increase by 50% at night.

When to go: the best times to visit are spring and autumn, when temperatures are in the mid-20s and skies are clear. Take warm clothes if visiting in winter — days are pleasant, but the nights can be cold. In summer, temperatures are regularly over 40C.

Tourist information: contact the Moroccan Tourism Board on 020 7437 0073 or visit www.tourism-in-morocco.com.

Richard Green travelled as a guest of British Airways and Cadogan Holidays

Times recommends

• The three best routes to the Med
• How to cash in on your holiday money
• 10 tips for the perfectly packed suitcase