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RIADS

Marrakesh is famed for its riads — townhouses rescued from dereliction and turned into boutique hotels. Hidden away behind plain doors — Islam decrees there should be no external displays of wealth — each riad is different, and there is one for every budget.

The opulent include La Sultana (00 212 44 38 80 08, www.lasultanamarrakech.com), with its roof terrace overlooking the Kasbah, and Dar Donab (44 18 97, www.dardonab.com), squirrelled away in the northern medina. There are also simple riads — the small rooms of Dar Sbihi (38 59 58, www.riaddarsbihi.com) are furnished with traditional Moroccan fabrics. For a mix of informality and luxury, try Dar les Cigognes (38 27 40, www.lescigognes.com), opposite the Badii Palace, ideal for stork-watching.

My favourite is Riad Kniza (37 69 42, www.riadkniza.com), owned and run by Moroccans — unusual in a city dominated by expats. It has lush rooms, a tranquil feel and a fabulous host in Mohammed Bouskri, who has been guiding the great and good, including five US presidents, around the city for 50 years.

RESTAURANTS

It’s not only riads that are tucked out of sight — restaurants can be equally hard to find. Here is our guide to the top five. Prices are for two, two courses with wine. Reservations are essential.

Le Yacout (38 29 29): A plain wooden door off a courtyard gives no clue to the gloriously over-the-top restaurant inside. The lush dining rooms and roof terrace make Yacout the city’s top dining spot; £70.

Dar Moha (38 64 00, www.darmoha.ma): A door in a white wall leads to a delightful courtyard with candelit tables; £60.

Le Comptoir (43 77 22): Look for a row of three lamps on avenue Echouhada and a tall man in a fez, who directs you through a portion of the Moorish door that leads to a sleekly beautiful restaurant where the hip crowd eat Moroccan-French fusion; £60.

Ksar El Hamra (42 76 07, www.restaurantksarelhamra.com): The best of the palace restaurants. An ornately carved and painted door gives a clue to the giddy designs inside; £50.

Al-Fassia (43 40 60) at 232 boulevard Mohammed V is run by women. The food is delightful, particularly the pastilla (pigeon pie); £40.

Need to know

Getting there: Annabelle Thorpe and artist Jane Webster travelled with Tapestry Holidays (020-8235 7700, www.tapestryholidays.com), staying at Dar les Cigognes and Riad Kniza. A four-night break at Riad Kniza costs from £615pp and four nights at Dar les Cigognes costs from £560 both including, including flights, transfers and B&B.

Many tour operators include a half-day tour, but private guides can also be booked through Menara Tours (44 66 54, www.menara-tours.ma).
Further information: www.tourism-in-morocco.com.

Page 3: The best of the guidebooks

() The best of the guidebooks

Hg2 Marrkech — A Hedonist’s Guide (£13.99)
A slick offering with maps of the North and South Medina, and sections labelled Sleep, Snack, Party and Shop, among others. Not for those who want a detailed history of the city, but if you’re looking for tips on hip hangouts, it’s your best bet.

Time Out Marrakech & the Best of Morocco (£12.99)
Strong on historical context and factual information, the book suffers by adhering to Time Out’s usual headings; Child- Friendly, Film, Galleries, etc, even though Marrakesh is not a city that slips comfortably into such categories.

Footprint: Marrakech (£7.99)
A handy, handbag-sized guide that is ideal for dipping into while you’re pounding the streets. The accommodation section is comprehensive and includes plenty of options outside the city if you fancy exploring beyond the rose-coloured walls.

Marrakesh, Everyman CityMap Guides (£5.99)
The ideal concept for this rabbit warren of a city, this small book contains six foldout maps, one for each area, with clearly marked museums, restaurants and places of interest. Best used in conjunction with a more detailed guidebook.

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