Later I found out how islanders are trying to re-establish Madeira’s much-reduced native flora of laurisilva. This beautifully rich mixture of heathers, laurel, Madeiran cedar, broom, oleander and other naturally occurring species was devastated by cutting to make way for foreign plants over the years. In the early part of the 20th century dense plantations of eucalyptus and acacia were introduced on the island’s south-facing slopes as quick-growing material for the wood-pulp industry, and it was an ecological disaster. Most of the native plants were smothered or shaded out, and the greedy pulp trees sucked up far too much water.

A 2,500-acre (836-hectare) ecological park has been established above Funchal in the heart of the pulp forests, and the eucalyptus and acacia are being cleared away. Better still, the native laurisilva plants are being reintroduced to the slopes. They are grown in the park’s nursery, in tins salvaged from the island’s hotels and hospitals.

Schoolchildren are taken to the park at regular intervals, and these small citizens of Madeira dig a tin each into the hillside. The tin soon rots away, and the young sprig of laurel, fern or heather is left to grow.

Up in the mountains behind Funchal it’s generally misty in the afternoon, as it was the day I went out around the ecological park with ranger Alexandre Fernandes. He said: “You see these tree heathers?They hold water in the ground, up to ten litres per tree, and they turn the mist into what we call ‘invisible rain’. It’s very good for all these other plants — the til tree, cow’s tongue, mimosa, these oleanders, and the fisherman’s laurel, and this lovely blue brushy one that we call Pride of Madeira.”

Laurisilva likes mist, as it does sun, clean soil and water. The Island of Eternal Springtime has all these commodities, pressed down and flowing over. It was inspiring to see how the mistakes of the past could be overturned, and to stand knee-deep in the laurel and tree heathers planted by children to mark their personal stake in the island’s ecologically healthy future.

Page 3: Need to know ()

NEED TO KNOW

Christopher Somerville travelled with Cadogan Holidays (023-8082 8313, www.cadoganholidays.com), which offers seven nights’ B&B at the Savoy hotel from £677 per person, including scheduled flights with TAP Air Portugal and transfers.

Cadogan Holidays is offering Times readers a 15 per cent discount on holidays to all its destinations. Call Cadogan on the number above, quoting FNC0604.

Getting there: TAP Air Portugal (0845 6010932, www.tap-airportugal.co.uk) flies to Funchal from London Heathrow and Gatwick from £179 return. Europcar (0870 6075000, www.europcar.com) offers one week’s rental from £133.

Activities: Levada walks: For guided walks contact Nature Meetings (00 351 291 200686, www.naturemeetings.com), which has half-day walks from £16.50. Or do it yourself with the Landscapes of Madeira guidebook (£10.99, Sunflower). Palheiro Gardens, aka Blandy’s Garden: 793044, www.casa-velha.com, open Mon–Fri, 9am-4pm, £5.50. From Jct 13 on Funchal bypass, follow Camacha and then Jardim Palheiro signs. Bus 36 and 37 from sea front, east Funchal. Ecological Park: 233922: www.uma.pt/pef. Visitor Centre at Ribeira das Cales. Bus from near cable car station in Funchal. Centre open 8.30am–7pm; guided tour with ranger, free (but arrange in advance). Waymarked footpath to Monte: allow two to three hours. Map leaflet from Visitor Centre.

Further information: Portuguese Tourism Office (0845 3551212, www.portugalinsite.com).

Times recommends

• Same flight + different airline code = £225 out of pocket
• The UK and Ireland's 25 best Christmas events
• Book 2010's best holidays now