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Six little pigs, grunting and squealing, are coaxed from their straw-filled travelling pen out on to the springy moorland. Wet snouts hungrily begin rooting in the bell heather and tufts of wild grass, and trotters churn up the peat bog as if they were spades.
As we watch the first wild boar to roam these Scottish Highlands for four
centuries, rain drifts in along the spectacularly deep glen. Ahead is the
most northerly copse of Caledonian pines, clinging on from the days before
logging and sheep grazing, before man ripped the life out of this valley.
It’s a magical spot for an historic moment.
These wild boar are the first of 22 hybrids released in May to work an
enclosure for forestry regeneration, the beginnings of Alladale Wilderness
Reserve, Scotland’s largest eco-tourism project.
It’s an African-style wildlife safari reserve bringing tourism, jobs and
prosperity to this area and where one day we might see the “big five” — wild
boar, elk, lynx, bear and wolf. Exact extinction dates for these beasts are
not known, but the elk, lynx and bear are thought to have survived here
until the Middle Ages, while the wild boar disappeared before the 17th
century. Legend has it that the last wolf seen in Scotland was shot in 1743.
Animals roaming again is the dream of Alladale’s new owner, the MFI furniture
heir Paul Lister, who hopes to reverse the environmental damage in this 36
sq m wilderness with five glens, ten hill lochs and two river systems.
Already, thousands of indigenous trees, including Scots pine and aspen, have
been planted, and European elk arrive next February. If the carnivores come
back to keep the red deer in check, Alladale could be fat with forest again.
“At the moment I own an environmental desert and slowly and surely we want to
turn the clock back. It’s not a safari park, it’s not a zoo. It’s like
nothing anyone has ever seen. It’s a mini-Yellowstone,” said 46- year-old
Lister, when I met him on my first visit to Alladale last summer. He is
committed to putting some of his millions into what he has seen happen with
wildlife reintroduction projects in Romania’s Carpathian mountains, North
America and the award- winning Shamwari Game Reserve in South Africa, where
overgrazed farms have been transformed into a lush game reserve of lions and
elephants.
“People might say, ‘what’s he got to gain?’ I don’t have to create this. I’m
into preservation of wealth, not making money. We have done a wholesale job
of destroying the British Isles. When you see places such as Romania, it
gives you encouragement to create a little Utopia right here.”
An hour north of Inverness, on a drive that skirts the Moray Firth, Alladale
is deep enough into the Highlands to make you feel blissfully isolated. Mist
and rain descend in seconds, chased away by a northern sun that hurts your
eyes. In peak summer the Highland midge can be relentless, but autumn is
magical, when the silver birch turn yellow, and red berries of the rowan
drop on to the first frosts. The guttural cries of stags locking antlers in
battle rise from the glen.
I went fly-fishing on the River Carron, where trout play in the peat-stained
froth, and to Glencalvie Falls where I watched salmon leap. Down the road is
the hamlet of Croick, where, in May 1845, 18 families driven from their land
in the Highland Clearances sought refuge in the churchyard and scratched
their hopeless messages in the church windowpanes.
Guests stay at Alladale Lodge, a former sporting lodge-turned-luxury retreat,
opened last August. Elevated on its own plateau, the 19th-century granite
lodge and its eight guest bedrooms have been furnished by Lister’s wife,
Pippa, with Laura Ashley prints, leathers and woods. There’s tea and
shortbread on tap, fresh water from the bore and bedrooms with flatscreen
televisions, goose down pillows and lamb’s-wool blankets. The chef, Drew
McKenzie, conjures up fine Scottish home cooking, roasting salmon and trout
from the rivers, and home-grown venison. Breakfasts, around a single,
polished wood table in the scarlet-walled baronial dining room, feature
honey from nearby Ardgay village, Black Isle bacon and tattie scones.
Groups, including families, can take over the whole lodge for a “House Party”,
as did Sam O’Brien and her husband from Oxfordshire, who treated a group of
pals for Burns Night. “It was like a breath of fresh air. I’m so bored with
those country hotels where you eat a large breakfast and then sit and do
nothing all day. We walked, saw the deer . . . it’s a different world up
there.”
For individuals, there are special-interest breaks from painting, photography
and yoga, to deer stalking, mountain biking, ornithology and fly-fishing.
There are plans to offer guided hikes over challenging munros that soar over
3,000ft (915m) and by autumn, local resident Rosie Ross will run wildlife
safaris on horseback. Well-known ornithologist Roy Dennis will lead wildlife
safaris to spot red deer, otter, badger, stoat, ptarmigan, red and black
grouse, and red fox. In the skies golden eagle, kestrel, merlin, buzzard and
peregrine, even osprey. “We are hoping to increase people’s wildlife
experience greatly, perhaps attract people who go, or who have been, to
Africa and are now interested in what’s going on on their doorstep,” said
Lister.
When I return to Alladale to witness the release of the wild boar, Lister is
away in Scandinavia choosing elk. I watch, hypnotised, as the little pigs
churn up soil into which a bird might drop a seed that will germinate and
grow into an Alladale of long ago. The rain dies and in seconds the glen and
its heather glisten.
Need to know
Alladale Wilderness Lodge and Reserve, Ardgay, Sutherland (01863 755338,
www.alladale.com), can be booked only on an exclusive-use basis, from £1,900
a night for up to 16 guests. Four-day Wilderness and Wildlife Breaks, run in
conjunction with Wilderness Scotland (0131-625 6635,
www.wildernessscotland.com), November 1-5, cost £995pp, based on double
occupancy, and include full board, four-wheel-drive excursions, mountain
biking, fly-fishing, and limited clay-pigeon shooting. Further details: 0845
2255121, www.visitscotland.com.
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