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THINK of Scotland, think first of eagles. And now there are two kinds of this
marvellous bird to be seen there. The golden eagle is the classic bird of
Scotland, the glory of the Highlands. But since 1975 another great eagle has
been winging its way around the West coast and the islands — the
white-tailed sea eagle.
Golden eagles sail with their two-metre (6ft) wingspan over the mountains and
moors of the northwest, but often one may not get no more than a glimpse of
them far away.
The rugged Cairngorms are a good place to seek them out, though one needs to
be a good walker, well-equipped with food and clothing. The boggy moors and
forests of the National Nature Reserve at Inverpolly in Sutherland are
another well-known haunt.
There are altogether about 400 pairs dotted about this part of Scotland. To
see one — even on the horizon — when one is out walking makes one’s day.
White-tailed sea eagles are even larger than golden eagles, and one of the
best places to see them is the Isle of Rum, where 82 young birds were
released between 1975 and 1985. On Rum, provided the eagles nest in a
suitable place, they can be watched in summer from an Royal Society for the
Protection of Birds (RSPB) hide, or seen at the nest through a webcam
installation, near Loch Frisa.
Altogether there are now more than 20 pairs nesting on cliffs and in trees up
and down the West coast. They eat gulls and hares, as well as trout and
herring.
The high plateaux of the far North with their alpine-arctic habitat are also
home to two fascinating wading birds that nest nowhere else in Britain.
Dotterels are pretty little birds with a red chest that run about the moss,
and can be very tame when found.
Long-legged greenshanks nest beside the pools and peat bogs. Also,
black-and-white snow buntings sing their sweet songs and nest just below the
summer snow-line.
Sutherland and the Outer Hebrides are the best places to go to if you want a
chance of hearing the ghostly wailing of the red-throated and black-throated
divers.
The red-throated, which are a little more numerous, nest beside the lochans,
while the black-throated are rare breeders on islands in the lochs.
Another raptor that is one of the treasures of Scotland now is that
magnificent fish-hawk, the osprey. This is more a bird of the lakes and
forests, nesting high in old conifers. It is a bird that has been returned
to Scotland. In 1959 a pair nested for the first time for many years at Loch
Garten, Strathspey, and was carefully guarded by the RSPB. Since then, the
population has risen to about 130 pairs.
The Osprey Centre at Loch Garten is the easiest place to watch them when they
return in summer — there is a famous hide here. Nature trails around the
centre should also produce crested tits and Scottish crossbills in the
trees.
Game birds are a great Scottish tribe. Red grouse can be seen anywhere among
the heather on the moors and mountainsides. In spring they shout “go-back,
go-back” at you across the valleys.
Black grouse, which are much less common, are attracted by the bilberry moors
that edge on the forests. Capercaillie, which are extraordinary turkey-like
birds with tails that open in a fan, are woodland birds of eastern Scotland.
They are extremely rare, but can be found as far east as the forests near
Dundee. Ptarmigan, by contrast, are birds of the high mountain tops. They
turn white in winter to blend with the snow.
Winter brings that other great tribe of birds — the wild geese. In the fields
of southeast Scotland, enormous flocks of pink-footed geese spend the day
feeding, going up with a great roar of voices and wings when they are
disturbed, and roosting on lochs and estuaries. To see the beautiful little
barnacle geese from Greenland, two good places to visit are the island of
Islay, and Mersehead on the Solway Firth.
At both places there is an RSPB reserve. On Islay there is also a flock of
choughs, little red-billed crows — besides many malt whisky distilleries.
There are many seabirds all round the Scottish coasts, including great
gannetries on the Bass Rock in the Firth of Forth and Ailsa Craig in the
Firth of Clyde. Boats go out to both of them, from North Berwick and Girvan
respectively. Long-tailed duck yodel from the sea in winter, and I have seen
them from the top of a municipal bus going from Edinburgh to Musselburgh.
As for Shetland and Orkney, they are famous for their arctic and great skuas,
and Shetland especially is renowned for its rare visitors from America or
Siberia. When some rarity has been reported on Shetland, you are likely to
see as many birdwatchers there as birds.
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