It was a welcome glimpse of rural Cambodia, but the next day we had some serious sightseeing to do. Angkor Wat is not just Cambodia’s principal attraction, it’s the world’s largest religious building. It is actually one of a complex of huge stone temples dotted around the province and dating back as far as AD800, remnants of a once glorious empire and a city that housed a million people. Some, like the main lake-side temple of Angkor Wat itself, are neatly preserved, fringed by cut grass or coated in wooden scaffolding. Other, more remote, temples are shrouded in foliage, humming with mosquitoes.

The all-powerful jungle has all but reclaimed them.

Curbing our temptation to head straight for the jungle, we trekked round the more familiar sites: the magnificent stone faces of the Bayon, the carved heads that guard the gateway to Angkor Thom and the exquisite stonework of Banteay Srei, so fine, it was said to be carved by women rather than men. But at last, almost as a reward, we allowed ourselves the final day to wander unhurried over the crumbling ruins of Ta Prohm, among the most mysterious, enigmatic and atmospheric of all Angkor’s temples.

Angelina Jolie’s producers knew they were onto a good thing when they filmed part of the Lara Croft: Tomb Raider film here. So enveloped was this temple by the lush forest, entire trees were growing on top of the ruins, giant, serpentine roots snaking down over the lichen-covered stone, as if slowly squeezing the life out of them. When we arrived, the place was overrun by a coachload of Korean tourists, but by sunset silence had descended, broken only by the raucous squawk of parakeets high in the treetops.

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As the shadows lengthened over the tumble of fallen stones, the secretive archways and passages, the crumbling walls held up by jungle roots, I half-closed my eyes and tried to think back to a time, 800 years ago, when there were said to be 80,000 people tending to this temple, including hundreds of dancers. Then a whine in my ear brought me back to the present: mosquitoes, in the jungle, at dusk. Not a good combination.

It was time to head back to the Hôtel de la Paix and the evening’s tasting menu, eaten stretched out on hanging couches suspended from the ceiling. Across the courtyard, the moon rose, and a chorus of frogs rang out. From somewhere came the sound of Khmer music, and for a moment, I could have sworn I could smell jasmine.

- Frank Gardner is the BBC’s security correspondent

TRAVEL BRIEF
Getting there: there are no direct flights from the UK to Cambodia. Returns via Bangkok to Phnom Penh or Siem Reapstart at about £600with Trailfinders (0845 050 5889, www.trailfinders.com ) or Flight Centre (0870 499 0046, www.flightcentre.co.uk ).

Where to stay: Raffles Hotel Le Royal (00 855-23 981888, www.phnompenh.raffles.com ; doubles from £150), is the poshest in Phnom Penh; or try the Himawari (www.himawarihotel.com ; doubles from £80). The Hôtel de la Paix (63 966000, hoteldelapaixangkor.com ), in Siem Reap, has doubles from £160.

Tour operators: with Cox & Kings (020 7873 5000, www.coxandkings.co.uk), nine nights, staying in five-star hotels, start at £2,750pp, B&B, including flights, car and driver. Or try Silver Bird (020 8875 9090, www.silverbird.co.uk ) or Somak (020 8423 3000, www.somak.com ).

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