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Even more conspicuous and delicious, though, is the Iberian pig, whose hams you can find hanging everywhere in the Sierra, mostly at the village of Jabugo. The very name Jabugo arouses strong emotions throughout Spain. This legacy stems from the 16th century, when the Inquisition, having given the Jews and Muslims little option, was wrestling with the problem of false conversions to Christianity. Ham became the instrument by which one’s adherence to the faith was put to the test.

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So why are the hams of Jabugo so special? Well, the ibérico, or Iberian pig, far from the pink tub that we know as a pig, is sleek, black and hairy, altogether a more primitive, earthy sort of a creature. The ibérico also has the odd property that the fat, instead of appearing as great wodges of tocino, or blubber, is distributed in a marbling effect throughout the meat. This has tremendous and succulent implications in terms of moistness and flavour.

The ibérico lives in the fields and woods. Here they run about and root, exercising and developing the texture of their muscles and meat, feeding on acorns. A certain amount of cereal is used in the final fattening process, but what makes an Iberian pig into a really great pig, is the quantity of acorns they put away.

At the western end of the Sierra de Aracena is Cortegana. From the castle that dominates the town you can see into neighbouring Portugal. The frontier that today is not even marked by a barrier, was in the early Middle Ages a bloody bone of contention betweeen the two countries. From these years of conflict there remain throughout the forest the castles and fortified towns of the marches.

The castle at Cortegana has been sensitively restored by a local historical society and is cool on a hot day, and intriguing. Afterwards you could reward yourself with a visit to the two magnificent 19th-century casinos in the centre of the town. A casino is not a gambling den in Spain, rather it is a sort of gentlemen’s club to which ladies are freely admitted — and the traveller is always welcome.

The eastern boundary of the Sierra is marked by Zufre, one of the little known jewels of Andalusia. It’s a long and difficult walk from Aracena, so it might be better to drive. This little hilltop town is unforgettable, both for the beauty of its setting, with views over the lake and mountains to the south, and its wonderful architecture: the surprising Italianate town hall and the church are delights. Apart from which there are palms, oranges and fountains in every nook and plaza, winding cobbled alleys, and a good feed at Casa Pepa: ham and mushrooms would be the obvious dish to order.

Next page: need to know

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NEED TO KNOW

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Getting there: Andalucian Adventures (01453 834137, www.andalucian-adventures.co.uk) offers walking and painting holidays in several regions of Andalusia and Catalonia. In the Sierra de Aracena it offers seven-night walking holidays with selected departures for £735pp, and painting or flower walk holidays for £775pp. Prices include full board, wine with dinner, guiding and tuition, but not flights to Malaga.

Andalucian Adventures suggests flying to Malaga (four hours to Aracena, transfers included). Malaga is served from 20 UK airports by airlines including easyJet (0871 7500100, www.easyjet.com), Jet2 (0870 7378282, www.jet2) and Britannia Direct (0800 000747, www.thomsonflights.com). Seville is closer to Aracena (1.5 hours) but clients have to organise their own taxi transfer (£80).

Chris Stewart guides for Andalucian Adventures on selected departures (May 30 and October 10) walking in the Alpujurras region of Andalusia.

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