Published in the April issue of The Sunday Times Travel Magazine

Few cities in Spain come with a spectacle as iconic as the Alhambra. Floodlit high on its dark hill by night, it floats above Granada like an enchanted palace.

In the soft light of early morning or the warm glow of sunset, it is just as mesmerising. Step inside and it is even more so, especially in spring when the gardens bloom and visitors are fewer.

And it makes the perfect introduction to a place spiced with complex history: an emirate ruled from Damascus; capital of the extravagant Nasrid kings (Spain’s last Muslim dynasty); and prize of the 1492 Catholic Reconquest.

The Sunday Times Travel Magazine - December

Instant weekend: Granada

Fiona Watson salutes the Southern city's sublime Moorish architecture and has all the essentials for a short break

• Instant weekend: Barcelona

BACKGROUND

• Seville, the most flirtatious city in Spain

• The best tapas in Spain

• Horses, sherry and flamenco in Jerez

Walking high in Spain

The history of southern Spain stirs the soul – and walking the hills of Ronda, it haunts your every step

• Spain's secret beach

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In the narrow cobbled streets of the Albaicín – the old Moorish quarter in the shadow of the Alhambra – you’ll be distracted by the heady smell of orange blossom from hidden gardens; by tiny teashops, bright with coloured lanterns, serving dainty Arabic pastries; and by atmospheric churches among the remains of ancient city walls.

The city has a talent for enjoying every minute to the full. Squares ringed with cafes and flower sellers invite you to people-watch idly from breakfast (over chewy battered churros and thick Spanish drinking chocolate) to tapas time. At this hour, lanes deserted for much of the day erupt into life, and each round of gin tonica brings more free mop-up snacks: croquetas de jamón (ham croquettes), or albóndigas (juicy meatballs in tomato sauce). Darkness ignites flamenco, at its fiery, passionate best in the subterranean nooks of the Sacromonte district.

It’s a ritual that draws you inexorably, filling you with wine, spirits and searing song. Recover the following morning in the steamy silence of an old-style bath house – just one more way to soak up the unique pleasures of this charismatic Spanish city.

AT A GLANCE

£3,000 BUYS YOU: A beautiful hand-crafted flamenco guitar in rosewood from one of Granada’s expert luthiers – though sadly not the ability to play it… HERE COMES SUMMER: One of the most popular drinks in the tapas bars is a tinto de verano (‘summer red’, usually shortened to verano): an easy-drinking mixture of red wine and lemonade. Too sweet? A chilled draught beer – or caña – slips down nicely, too… NOT JUST FOR BUNNIES: Semana Santa – Holy Week – is celebrated in the run-up to Easter with passion, processions and parties in Granada. If you really want to show penitence, follow the route barefoot.

TOTALLY MOORISH

Take it nice and slow round the rambling Alhambra palace (Calle Real de la Alhambra; 00 34 902 441221, www.alhambra-patronato.es; £7.50). Founded as a fortress in the ninth century, it grew in size and splendour over the following 500 years of Muslim rule. Everywhere you wander in this Islamic citadel there’s something to captivate: crane your neck for elaborate wood ceilings and marble capitals; eyes peeled for tiled, carved facades and courtyards with pools of water reflecting the buildings. Arrange a tour with city-walk specialists Cicerone (www.ciceronegranada.com) and you’ll enjoy it even more.

Idle in the candlelit Moorish-style bath house Aljibe de San Miguel (Calle San Miguel Alta 41; 00 34 958 522867, www.aljibesanmiguel.es; £20 for two hours). It’s a sensitive remodel, with a splash of coloured tiles among the rough columns and bare brick walls. Float in the hot pools, cool off with a tinglingly cold plunge, then submit to a 15-minute massage with scented oils, to a soundtrack of soft music and running water.

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