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“To be honest, there was a time when I really got the hump with Spain. I was going to Puerto Banus quite a bit and it’s become like Bethnal Green in the sun. Then I discovered Agua Amarga in Almeria, where we filmed Sexy Beast, which I would never have found if we hadn’t shot there. Puerto Banus isn’t real Spain at all. Agua Amarga, though, is in a national park, a little village set right by the sea, populated by Spanish people — not English. It was absolutely stunning, the genuine article. It restored my faith in the country. That and Barcelona. I love architecture and it’s one of my favourite cities.”
Page 2: beach holidays for families
Page 3: countryside and activity breaks for families
Page 4: beach holidays for grown-ups
Page 5: countryside and activity breaks for grown-ups
Page 6: getting there and getting around
()Viva la vida — and now, the holidays for grown-ups
From upmarket Ibiza to artsy Bilbao, it's easy to dodge the family hordes
There’s a tendency to think of Spain as a destination for young families and old codgers. It’s great fun while you’re still in swimming armbands and short trousers, and a nice sunny place to retire to when you’re not too happy negotiating stairs. But for the big chunk of life in the middle, there are more exciting places.
This is a wholly mistaken view. If you ever tire of Spain, you just need to peel back another layer. Let’s say, for example, that you want to live it up in style with a few mates. Then head for Barcelona, or Tarifa, or the posher parts of Ibiza. Suppose you’re out to set up a seduction. Try a moonlit stroll in Seville, or a stay at a cosy boutique hotel in the Mallorcan countryside. And if it’s culture you’ve come for, well, you’re spoilt for choice — from the Guggenheim in Bilbao, through the medieval marvels of Segovia and Toledo, to the Alhambra in Granada.
Spain, just for families? Grow up!
Beaches
CASTING ASIDE the demands of toddlers and teens allows you to widen your horizons and seek out that perfect beach experience. Get away from it all in Cantabria, or on the Costa de la Luz; rent a villa with friends on the spectacular north coast of Ibiza; or hide away on lazy Formentera, where a week can go by without very much happening at all.
Empty-nesters may also find they can afford a better hotel. The Costa del Sol, for instance, has limited appeal on a tight budget — but loosen the purse strings a little and you can choose between several eye-catching five-star hotels.
What’s more, Spain has seen a healthy growth in the number of villas that sleep two — perfect for that romantic getaway.
Go independent
Escape the packaged hordes in Tarifa, a groovy, grown-up little corner of Spain with dreamy white-sand beaches and a delightful seafront hotel, the Hurricane (00 34 956 684919). Set in subtropical gardens, it has doubles with breakfast from £88, and there is excellent walking, riding and rock-climbing nearby. Tarifa is a windsurfing mecca — and with a stiff breeze in your sail, you could almost make it to Morocco. Fly to Gibraltar or Jerez.
Now, imagine a little stone cottage, beautifully restored, with views of the sea and its own swimming pool. Within walking distance you have a selection of world-class beaches, plus atmospheric harbours where you can buy seafood to cook on your own barbecue. If you found somewhere like this on the Costa del Sol it would cost a king’s ransom, but on the unspoilt northwest coast of Galicia, you can get it for a song. This is Villa A Laxe in Sanxenxo, and it sleeps two (or two and a baby) for £645 with Vintage Travel Vintage Travel (0845 344 0420). Fly to Santiago de Compostela, an hour’s drive away.
Two-person villas with pools are like gold dust, particularly in Mallorca — so Finca Rodin is a nugget. Located just outside the attractive resort of Puerto Pollensa, on the island’s north coast, it is perfect for a romantic tryst, with beamed ceilings, a large sunny terrace and gardens. It costs £767, including car hire, with Individual Travellers Spain (0870 077 3773). Fly to Palma.
Alternatively, club together with a bunch of mates and rent a superb seafront villa in Ibiza. Far from the madding crowds of San Antonio, Villa Cybaura perches on rocks a few minutes from the quiet northeastern resort of Cala San Vincent. There is a pool, a chillout terrace, barbecue, hot tub, bar and gardens. Trendy Aguas Blancas beach and the hippie markets at San Carlos are nearby. The house sleeps 16 and costs £2,500 through www.holiday-rentals.com (ref: 16714). Fly to Ibiza.
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