While resorts such as Las Americas and Los Christianos have been popular package holiday destinations since the 1960s, it’s only been in the last decade or so that travellers have ventured north and discovered the Latin charms of Tenerife’s capital, Santa Cruz. With a climate less sweltering than the sun-scorched south (the locals describe it as permanently spring), the landscape is refreshingly green.

FROM THE AIRPORT

With two airports - Reina Sofia in the south and Los Rodeos in the north - accessibility is not a problem. From the south: buses and taxis are available, bus 341 takes around 50 minutes and costs £4.70, while a taxi will you set back around £35. From the north: a 25-minute bus ride (102 or 109 service, £2), or a taxi for £9.50.

WAYS TO STAY

Live it up
Built in 1948 to accommodate the island’s first wave of foreign tourists, the five-star Mencey is Santa Cruz’s oldest and grandest hotel. With a deserved reputation for style and service, the antique furnishings, on site facilities (including a tennis court, swimming pool and gym) and superb location (opposite the verdant Parque Garcia Sanabria) make for a refined, elegantly old-fashioned experience.
Singles from £135 (Calle Dr. José Naveiras 38, www.sheraton.com/mencey)

Location, location, location
Overlooking charming Plaza del Principe, slap-bang in the heart of Santa Cruz, the three-star Principe Paz is for the visitor who doesn’t want to miss a thing. Every comfortable, tastefully decorated room comes with a television, telephone and air conditioning, but you may prefer to gaze from your window and watch life as it passes below you.
Singles from £55 (Calle Valentin Sanz 33, principepaz@principepaz.com)

Do it yourself
If you are one of those people who misses home comforts (a good cup of tea is hard to come by in Tenerife), then opt for the three-star Hotel-Apart Colon Rambla. Along with all the usual amenities, every spacious apartment has a kitchen with fridge, cooker and all the bits. Set in a location overlooking the Rambla del General Franco (see below), the relaxed atmosphere and professional service will make your British cuppa taste all the finer.
Singles from £50 (Calle Viera y Clavijo 49, www.hotel-colonrambla.com)

THE BEST DINERS IN TOWN

Cutting edge eating
A little off the beaten track, Restaurante Libano is well worth the trek. Situated 100 metres or so up from Plaza del Paz, this welcoming Lebanese eatery serves a wide range of both meat and vegetarian dishes. While the traditionally prepared kebabs are sumptuous, I advise the gastronauts among you to try the Jaruf Menghen (lamb stuffed with rice, raisins, almonds and cinnamon) which is as delicious as it is difficult to pronounce.
Mains from £5 (Calle Santiago Cuadrado 36, Tel: 285914)

A local classic
If you wish to sample some authentic Canarian cuisine, then look no further than the Bodeguita Canaria. With a distinctly rustic decor and ambience, the menu features many local specialities including garbanzas (chickpeas), rabbit and cuttlefish. And be sure to order some papas con mojo (salty boiled potatoes in a hot pepper sauce), the original Canarian delicacy and a sure-fire way to gain the native diners’ respect. Mains from £4 (Calle Imeldo Seris 18, Tel: 293216)

Nice and easy
With a large Italian community resident in Santa Cruz, getting a good pizza is no problem. My favourite is Da Gi Gi, which serves a fine range of antipasti and pasta as well as freshly prepared pizzas. Although there are two restaurants in town to choose from, I’d opt for the one just off the seafront at Calle La Marina, whose pastel interior is decked with vivid, surreal paintings. For those who enjoy eating al fresco, there is also a shaded terrace. Pizzas from £3 (calle La Marina, Plaza Isable II, Tel: 248971)

DON’T MISS...

The Rambla del General Franco, which if you can pardon the rather politically incorrect title, provides the perfect snapshot of everyday Santa Cruz life. Running like an artery through the centre of the city, this tree-lined promenade is the gathering place for all generations, from groups of animated pensioners putting the world to rights, to excitable kids enjoying an impromptu kick-about. Of special interest to anyone of an artistic inclination are the various sculptures dotted along the leafy boulevard, which include an original Henry Moore composition from 1977.

SHOPPING

For those who prefer (tax-free) retailing to rambling, there is an abundance of familiar high street names and local vendors in and around Calle del Castillo, a bustling pedestrian precinct that runs from the seafront up to the historic Plaza Weyler.

PARTYING

Finally, if you like to party (and have indefatigable stamina), then February is the time to pay a visit, as during this month everything stops for the annual Carnaval, 25 days (and very late nights) of rum-fuelled singing, dancing and revelry.

WHAT TO SEE

The recently built, hook-beaked auditorium (which coincidentally was designed by Santiago Calatrava, responsible for the whale-like Olympic stadium in Greece) is a prime example of the cultural overhaul currently underway in Santa Cruz. As stunning inside as out - the pure white crystalline ceiling is breathtaking - the remarkable acoustics and varied programmes on offer make a visit to this 21st century opera house a must. Details: www.sinfonicadetenerife.com

IF YOU ONLY SEE ONE CHURCH

...then make it the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Concepcion in Calle Dominguez Alfonso. Originally constructed in 1498, just two years after the conquest of Tenerife was completed, its present appearance dates from the middle of the 18th century. Famed for its imposing (and still functioning) bell tower, inside the church you’ll find a fascinating array of paintings, sculptures and historic mementoes, including a silver cross dating from the times of the conquest and British flags captured during Nelson’s unsuccessful attempted invasion of the island in 1797.

NEED TO KNOW

Santa Cruz’s main information centre can be found just to the left of the official looking Cabildo Insular (council offices) in Plaza España. Staffed by helpful, multilingual guides, there are a host of relevant maps and leaflets on offer, all of which are free.
(Cabildo building, Plaza España 1, Tel: 239592, www.cabtfe.es/puntoinfo). Open Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-1pm)

Patrick Ford is a travel writer based in Tenerife and is a regular contributor to Living Tenerife magazine

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