Why should I go now? Because in the summer, if you don’t pass out in the 40C heat, you’ll be flattened by the tourist masses tramping through the narrow, cobbled streets of the old town.

Book now for March and you can expect temperatures in the balmy low 20s. You’ll also see a more relaxed, real Cordoba at your own pace: hanging out in bars and chomping tapas with the locals will give you a greater feel for this historic city than you could ever get with a headset from the tourist office.

This was once the intellectual, political and cultural capital of the Islamic empire, and the Moorish influence still pervades the patios and plazas. But all your sleeping, gastronomic and cultural needs can be met in and around the Juderia, the original Jewish quarter and the city’s historic heart, now a Unesco World Heritage Site.

This maze of meandering alleyways has an almost melancholy air when empty late at night. By day, though, its boutiques, bars and jewellery shops (Cordoba is famed for its silver, especially filigree) are thrumming.

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What do I do? Allow a morning at the Mezquita. A cavernous, ornate mosque, the third largest in the world, it took two centuries to build and dominates the Juderia. A monumental feat of architecture, it has a Renaissance cathedral within its walls. The contrast of religious styles under one roof is startling.

In the afternoon, take your pick of quaint, atmospheric squares to pause in, whether for a spot of culture or tapas and a restorative sherry - Montilla-Moriles is the local tipple. On the picturesque Plaza del Potro are the Museo de Bellas Artes and the Posada del Potro, a 15th-century inn where Cervantes was once a guest.

From here, head back towards the Mezquita to the Baños Arabes (00 34-957 484746, hammamspain.com/cordoba ; £28.50). These traditional mixed baths, once the place for Islamic ablutions, now offer hot and cold soaks, as well as a heavenly massage in thesala templada.

In mid-afternoon, when the commercial side of the city takes its siesta, the stillness of the air is interrupted only by guitar music wafting through upper-floor studio windows. Not only is the flamenco style taught here, Cordoba is one of the world’s foremost producers of the hand-carved instruments.

If you happen upon a door or gate that’s ajar, take a peek - behind many a whitewashed wall lies a lavishly decorated courtyard, each a horticultural haven with roses, geraniums and carnations in profusion. In May, the cordo-beses throw open their doors for the Festival de los Patios; they are terrifically proud of their efforts, so snooping is not just accepted, it’s positively welcomed.

Flamenco is at the heart of every Cordoban’s cultural repertoire, and you can see the next generation following in the Cuban-heeled footsteps of Joaquin Cortes at the excellent Tablao Cardenal (tablaocardenal.com ; £18, including a drink). Alternatively, visit during the International Guitar Festival (July 4-17; spain.info), when the clacking and clapping of heels and hands can be heard on every street corner.

Where do I stay? You won’t find a better place to relax than amid the orange trees in the courtyard of the sumptuous Hospes Palacio del Bailio (957 498993, fuenso.com ; from £135). The history and art in this stunning 16th-century Arabic palace sit judiciously within the hotel’s minimalist design. Note the glass floor in the atrium, underlit at night, which covers the impressive remains of a Roman villa.

An altogether more colourful experience is to be had at Casa de los Azulejos (957 470000, www.casadelosazulejos.com ; from £96), whose dueño, Manuel, has converted a traditional 1930s townhouse to great effect. The hotel takes its name from the original tiles on the floors and walls, and each of its eight rooms is unique.

Alternatively, you can practically touch the Mezquita from your room at the recently renovated Hacienda Posada Vallina (957 498750, hhposadadevallina.es ; from £120).

What do I eat? Tapas at lunchtime, naturally:salmorejo, a thick, creamy version of gazpacho, andrabo de toro (stewed oxtail) are local delicacies. Popular with locals, especially the bullfighting fraternity, is Taberna Rafae (Calle Deanes; 957 294866, www.tabernarafae.es ). Plaza del Potro is the place for a fine lunch, on the elegant terrace of El Museo (Calle Enrique Romero de Torres 3; 957 480877).

As in all Spanish cities, you’ll rarely find the locals dining out before 10pm, although the nightlife here is muted compared to its bigger Andalusian neighbours. Cordoba’s most venerable dining institution is, without doubt, El Churrasco (Calle Romero 38; 957 294808, www.elchurrasco.com ; £55pp).

Sprawling over five floors in the heart of the Juderia, it is busy every night with the great and the good of the city, and, of course, discerning visitors. Churrasco means grilled meat, but the fish dishes (notably sea bass and halibut) are also a tour de force. Some of the waiters look as though they have been here since it opened nearly four decades ago, but tuck into what is reputed to be the best wine cellar in Andalusia and you’ll soon win them over.

For a nightcap, stop off at La Fragua (Calleja del Arco 2; 957 484572), a stone-vaulted bar by the Alcazar. The congenial host, Pepe, will ply you with brandy till the wee hours and the occasional impromptu flamenco performance will have youoleing all the way home.

How do I get there? The closest airport is Malaga, 90 minutes’ drive away and served from 23 UK airports. Airlines include EasyJet (easyjet.com), Flybe (0871 700 2000, flybe.com ), and BMI Baby (0871 224 0224, bmibaby.com ). Car hire starts at £12 a day with Sixt (0844 499 3399, sixt.co.uk ) or Holiday Autos (0871 472 5229, holidayautos.co.uk ).

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