One of the most majestic sights in Asturias is the sun’s first rays striking the craggy mountains of the Picos de Europa. The glow spreads downwards from the 2,648m (8,688ft) Torrecerredo, over the other jagged snowcaps and lights and makes an orange beacon of the Naranjo de Bulnes, a gigantic tooth of naked rock that soars to 2,519m.

Centuries before the discovery of the Americas, the Picos de Europa helped man to navigate at sea — the coast is just 30km away — on what was then considered the edge of a flat Earth.

The national park is a heaven for nature lovers. More than 6,000 agile chamois graze freely, eagles and vultures soar and capercaillie, deer and boar inhabit wooded valleys.

For the more sedentary there are glorious drives along some of Europe’s most beautiful canyons and up to dizzy viewpoints in the mountains. For the active, numerous walks lead into and around the park.

The drive from Santander to Panes, at the eastern end of the mountains, can take just over an hour. From there you can head straight for Cangas de Onis (a 45-minute journey), the unofficial capital of the Picos, or you can take the trickier five to six-hour trip to Cangas around the south of the mountains.

Near Arenas de Cabrales, on the quicker route to Cangas, is Poncebos with a funicular tunnel up to Bulnes or the start of the Garganta de Cares canyon walk to Cain. Just past Arenas is the lookout point for the Naranjo de Bulnes. Near Cangas de Onis is the road up to the Covadonga shrine and, much higher, two stunning mountain lakes.

The Garganta de Cares walk (not for those with vertigo) is best begun early in the day for easier parking at Poncebos. It takes about four hours to reach the village of Cain or a couple hours to make the return trip to the spectacular Cares gorge on a lower path. Also from Poncebos, a funicular takes just seven minutes to whisk people up in a tunnel to the mountain village of Bulnes.

At Covadonga is a remarkable cave shrine, perched above a waterfall that springs out of a sheer cliff, dedicated to the Virgin of Covadonga.

She inspired Don Pelayo to defeat the invading Arabs in Asturias in 722, thus founding the monarchy and starting the reconquest of the Iberian peninsular. More than a thousand diamonds are said to decorate the virgin’s crown in the local museum.

From Covadonga, the road twists up to the roof of Asturias with magnificent vistas of the mountains with the two lakes of Enol and Ercina. Nearby is a visitor centre and car park.

The southern circuit from Panes via Potes starts up the spectacular, 19km-long Desfiladero (Canyon) de la Hermida and finishes along the equally beautiful Desfiladero de Los Beyos just before Cangas.

En route is a great value rustic restaurant in La Hermida and excursions to the Liébana Monastery, founded in the 7th century, near Potes, on the detour to Fuente Dé. Here there is a cable car that rises almost vertically 750m. to a lookout. Weather, time and driving skills permitting, you can turn off to visit the stunning valley of Valdeán.

The small town of Cangas de Onís has a visitor information centre for the Picos as well as various outfits offering adventure sports. The best hotel, with fine dining, is the comfortable Parador de Cangas de Onís at Villanueva on the road to Arriondas. Book early for a regal room in the old part, a beautifully restored 12th-century Benedictine monastery with cloisters.

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