THERE were no taxis outside the terminal as I emerged from León airport in
northwest Spain, not even an airport bus to take me to the city centre and
my humble lodgings.
I was about to start a 200-mile (320km) walk on the Camino de Santiago (the
Way of St James), a medieval footpath for over 1,000 years, since the
discovery of St James the Apostle’s relics in the 9th century. The whole
route stretches for 500 miles from the northern end of the Pyrenees on the
French/Spanish border across the Iberian Peninsula to Santiago de Compostela
in the western reaches of Galicia, and has changed little in all that time.
Before setting off, however, there were hurdles to overcome. I wasn’t a
walker, I’d never carried a rucksack, an essential piece of equipment on a
walk such as this, and, being a part-owner of Elegant Resorts, a travel
company specialising in luxury tailor-made holidays, I’ve become used to
travelling in style. Airport representatives meet me on arrival, luggage is
taken care of and a limousine whisks me away to a lovely hotel. None of this
on the Camino; this was going to be a holiday like no other.
The summer of 2005 was spent getting fit and fell-walking in the Lake
District. Prada, Giorgio Armani and Jimmy Choo were eschewed in favour of
North Face, Rohan, Meindl and Ellis Brigham and at the end of September I
set off alone for Spain. My rucksack weighed a back-breaking 9.5kg (21lb),
yet contained only the barest essentials, including a goose-down sleeping
bag with a silk liner (my one luxury).
At the height of its popularity, in the 11th and 12th centuries, more than
half a million people a year are said to have made the pilgrimage either by
foot or horseback from different parts of Europe, despite the long and often
hazardous journey. The Kings of Spain built roads, bridges and hospitals to
encourage pilgrims to Santiago, hoping to attract money and skills to the
area; for their part, the pilgrims were driven by devotion and their urgency
to obtain divine forgiveness.
Today, people walk the Camino for a variety of reasons — cultural, religious,
as a significant event in their lives or for fitness. The whole walk takes
about a month, but there are no rules, and you can start and finish
anywhere. I decided to walk continuously for 14 days with a couple of extra
days for sightseeing in León and Santiago. I also planned to finish my
journey in Finisterre on the Galician coast, some 55 miles from Santiago
and, in medieval times and before Columbus, considered to be the end of the
known world.
The first couple of days were difficult. Continual walking with a heavy
rucksack, lack of sleep in unisex dormitories, thanks to snoring, and a
seriously aching body made me think: “What the hell am I doing here?” But I
soon became accustomed to the Camino and started to enjoy the simple life
and the freedom of walking. Only one change of clothes meant no worries
about what to wear each day; I was devoid of all clutter and felt totally
liberated.
Even my rucksack seemed lighter, my obsession with weight now transferring to
my feet. Every morning the ritual rubbing in of Vaseline was followed at the
end of the day by a serious foot inspection, checking for sore spots and
blisters. Feet were always a topic of conversation with fellow walkers and I
was witness to some very sorry sights. But I was lucky, remaining
blister-free for the whole trip.
Life settled into a pattern, waking early, packing my rucksack by torchlight
and setting off before daybreak, hoping to reach my planned destination by
mid-afternoon. I would walk approximately 15 miles a day, stopping for lunch
at a local bar and then look for a refugio. On arrival, boots off
(heaven) and a shower would be followed by the washing of clothes, writing
up my journal, dinner, then lights out by 10.
All the refugios offer simple, clean, bunk-style, unisex
accommodation, except monasteries, which are segregated. Prices range from
donations “according to your circumstances in life” at the monasteries, to
between £3.50 and £6.50 at the municipal and private refugios — and only
genuine pilgrims are accepted upon presentation of a credencial or pilgrim’s
passport. Pilgrims are well received in this unspoilt part of Spain; most
restaurants offer a simple peregrino or pilgrim menu for £5 and the locals
provide a warm welcome, frequently calling out an encouraging “buen camino”.
The scenery was often spectacular, ranging from majestic 5,000ft mountain
peaks, rolling heather-covered hills, vineyards, orchards and forests of
eucalyptus, oak and chestnut trees to small picturesque farms, ancient
hamlets and charming villages. The footpath was well marked with yellow
arrows and embossed conch-shell markers and provided a challenging variation
of mountain tracks with sustained ascents and descents, rocky roads, loose
stone, grassy paths and the tarmac of León, Astorga and Ponferrada.
There was always time to chat to the locals, visit the Romanesque churches
and magnificent Gothic cathedrals or take a picture of ancient monuments and
statues. Naturally, one came across St James in most towns and villages,
variously depicted as St James the Apostle, St James the Pilgrim or St James
the Moor-Slayer.
Perhaps the most memorable feature of the trip was the generosity of spirit
and feeling of goodwill among my fellow walkers: the two delightful American
actresses with their vast repertoire of Broadway musicals and known to all
as the Singing Sisters; the charming, wealthy businessman from Brazil; the
health consultant from Canada; the Red Cross worker from Italy; the retired
United Nations captain and his wife; and the young French couple who had
walked with their cherubic 18-month-old baby from their farm in the middle
of France together with two donkeys, a goat and a dog.
We became a mobile community and would meet up at various stages en route,
chat, dine together and then walk on. Finally, some of us shared the emotion
and joy of entering Santiago together and attending the peregrino service at
the great Gothic cathedral. It was the end of a physically challenging but
immensely satisfying journey.
On returning from Finisterre and still in my walking clothes, I decided to
re-enter the world of luxury by checking in to the five-star Parador in
Santiago. Freshly laundered sheets and a long hot soak in the bath were
sheer bliss . . . but somehow I missed the Camino and my travelling
companions and — I never thought I’d say this — even my rucksack.
The fee for this article was donated to the Alzheimer’s Society (www.alzheimers.org.uk).
Need to know
Getting there: Walks Worldwide (01524 242000,
www.walksworldwide.com) offers a variety of ways to experience the Camino de
Santiago; self-guided packages with different length itineraries, pre-booked
accommodation, baggage transfers and comprehensive route notes. A seven-day
trip costs from £895. Alternatively, a guided trip, which includes use of a
support vehicle if you want a day off, costs from £1,520. Both include
flights, transfers and some meals.
Reading: A Pilgrim’s Guide to Camino Francés (Confraternity
of St James, £6).
Further information: The Confraternity of St James (020-7298
9988, www.csj.org.uk).
