Brazenly poking our noses one morning into 360, a new rooftop club on Istiklal Caddesi, the barman left the washing-up to show us round. “I love your Queen so much,” he said. Only after some faltering starts at tiaras and corgis did we realise that he meant the band led by the late Freddie Mercury. We also met dancers who used to be au pairs in Bedford — no wonder they prefer Istanbul — an artist who insisted on showing us her studio, and a restaurant owner who offered us a partnership deal as soon as he realised we were British.

On our last day we enjoyed a cold beer in Leb-i derya, another stylish new rooftop bar. Admiring the Bosphorus views, I toppled off my stool and almost tipped into the street seven storeys below. There were only a few centimetres of plastic screen protecting me from oblivion.

So, Turkey may want to join the EU, but could such buildings, and there are scores of them, pass stringent EU regulations? Another reason to visit Istanbul now, while it’s still swimming joyfully against the tide of bureaucracy.

Need to know

Jill Hartley travelled with Exclusive Escapes (020-8605 3500, www.hiddenturkey.com). She stayed at Stablesgate House in Sultanahmet. Three nights cost from £594pp, based on two sharing, including return flights with Turkish Airlines and a private guide for half a day. Four sharing from £547pp.

Continued on page 2: Istanbul: the basics

RESTAURANTS

Changa, Siraserviler Caddesi 87/1, Taksim (00 90 212 251 7064, www.changa-istanbul.com). Fusion food from New Zealander Peter Gordon.

Mezzaluna, Abdi Ipekci Caddesi 38/1, Macka (231 3142). Pasta power-lunching with the fashion set.

Fifth Floor, Soganci Sokak 7, Cihangir (293 3774, www.5kat.com), bordello-red decor, guests and views more interesting than the food.

Velas, Istiklal Caddesi 88/7, Beyoglu (244 5751), one of six rooftop bars and eateries, some serving until 5am. Classic Mediterranean.

BARS AND CAFÉS

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