There’s a mythical island where time has stood still. Fishermen still mend their nets in medieval harbours, shepherds on hilltops greet strangers like long-lost friends and pristine beaches of golden sand are disturbed only by nesting turtles.

The place is Northern Cyprus, a country that officially doesn’t exist. It was established after the Turkish invasion of 1974, but it’s not recognised by either the UN or the EU. You can fly there, but only if you touch down in Turkey first.

After a slow start, tourism is picking up. Last year, about 100,000 Brits visited on holiday, but that’s a tiny fraction of the 1.3m who poured into the south of the island. One reason for the increase is price — Northern Cyprus uses the Turkish lira, which means your pound will stretch further than it does in the eurozone — while another is access (since 2003, it’s been possible to drive across the border).

But it’s also the place. The food is excellent, the people are friendly. There are Roman ruins and fairy-tale castles on dramatic mountaintops. And the north-coast port of Kyrenia has one of the most attractive Venetian harbours in the Mediterranean.

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It’s not all good news, sadly. Much of the coastline has been ravaged by developers building cheap retirement homes. Where olive groves once stood, ugly neon signs now advertise 24-hour casinos. And the best beaches — where turtles sometimes outnumber humans — are far from the main resorts. What you really need is a smart guide to Northern Cyprus. Here it is.

WHERE TO STAY

Kyrenia (also known as Girne) is the best place to set up base camp, though the beaches are poor. It has a decent selection of hotels, as well as fine restaurants, and is within easy reach of three must-sees: Bellapais Abbey, St Hilarion Castle and Kyrenia Castle.

Several new hotels have opened in the foothills around Kyrenia, the swankiest of which is the Malpas Hotel and Casino. It has some attractive family villas, but needs to raise its standards of catering and service to merit its five-star billing.

To escape the bustle, head to the Karpas peninsula. Accommodation there is basic (solar-heated showers, no air con, no pools), but it has vast sand dunes, rolling countryside and dazzling night skies. I liked the Oasis (00 90-533 840 5082, oasishotelkarpas.com), in Ayfilon, which has eight simple beachfront rooms on the site of the ancient ruined city of Karpasia. The restaurant serves excellent fresh fish.

In the same area, try the Arch Houses (392 372 2009, karpazarchhouses.com ), which has cosy rooms in converted farm buildings, and Burhan’s Place (533 864 1051, burhansgoldenbeach.com ), which has wooden huts overlooking idyllic Golden Beach. All three charge £35 per night for two people, B&B.

WHAT TO SEE

Kyrenia is a must. Beside the harbour, which is lined with restaurants and pavement cafes, stands a colossal moated castle with creaking gates and high ramparts — perfect for kids to run amok. Inside is a small museum containing what has been said to be the world’s oldest salvaged shipwreck, with its entire cargo, including wine jugs and 9,000 almonds, on display.

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