STAY: Castro gay guest houses

Inn on Castro: my personal favourite: great, reasonably priced B&B in the heart of everything. Fab breakfasts: bagsy the freshly baked muffins. 321 Castro Street, www.innoncastro.com, 001-415 861 0321.

Also: Parker House (520 Church Street, www.parkerguesthouse.com , 001-415 621 3222); 24 Henry and Village House (24 Henry Street and 4080 18th Street, www.24henry.com, 001-415 864 5686); Beck’s Motor Lodge (2222 Market Street, www.becksmotorlodgesf.com, 001-415 621 8212); Willows Inn (710 14th Street, www.willowssf.com, 001-415 431 4770). Sam and Joe’s Castro Suites have appartments to rent (www.castrosuites.com, 001-415 437 1783)

IN THE CASTRO

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The parks: Dolores Park, between Mission and Castro, with its rolling topography; the little neighbourhood parks of the Castro; great when it’s sunny, great to watch the fog rolling in over Twin Peaks (worth a drive in itself). The best rocky outcrop overlooking the Castro, with paths leading up to it, is Corona Heights.

The Mission Pool is close to the Castro, at 19th and Guerrero, on the other side of Dolores Park. The only public outdoor pool in SF it’s also something of a secret and a lovely place to swim and tan.

Though a few blocks above the Castro, the Pemberton Stairs make for a great walk past lovely hillside homes with beautifully maintained garden. Turn right on Graystone St. at the top of the stairs and walk to Tank Hill for a secret view of the city.

The Seward Street slides can be a lot of fun after a few beers. Then head up to Kite Hill for yet another great view. The latter comes especially recommended on a blustery day.

Pink Triangle Park — squashed in between Castro and 17th streets is a tiny park dedicated to gay Holocaust victims. Somewhat plain but also pleasant in an understated way.

EAT

Hot Cookie, the best cookies on the planet and almost worth the plane fare itself. 407 Castro Street, 001-415 621 2350.

Peets, Market, 2257 Market Street between 16th and Noe: Castro offshoot of smart coffee franchise. Bookish gays hangout.

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