Cardiff is a busy, ugly-beautiful town with energy, strident pleasure-seeking and a sense of verve rivalled by few cities in Britain. It has the beautiful Millennium Stadium, the new Millennium Centre, and as of last year, Holland House. Just off the main shopping thoroughfare of Queen Street, it is a glistening, shiny tower. The entrance is spacious but dominated by a chunky stained-glass window to the rear of the foyer representing Wales in Europe, industrial Cardiff and a lithe dragon.

Although I had booked on the internet and paid only £3 more for dinner, bed and breakfast than I would have for a straight B&B booking, reception did not understand this, telling me that I had made only a B&B reservation — very annoying.

I had better luck upstairs. The corridors are painted in a pastel green that continued into my room with pictures of green clouds and carpets of spring green swirls. The curtains were floor-to-ceiling, darker green, and revealed (I was on the eighth floor) stunning views of Cardiff Bay and Flat Holm island. The bathroom was opulent with beige tiles, a separate shower, taps in the centre of the bath, stereo speaker linked to the room, and citrussy Molton Browns.

The dining room on the first floor had a pianist tinkling away, but as only about 40 people were seated in the 200-capacity room on the Friday night I visited, it felt a bit like a warehouse. Service was attentive and the kitchen was open on one side. First course of chicken and smoked Caerphilly bourdin was a bit dry, but the duck and chicory tart to follow was inventive and tasty. The dining room also hosted next morning’s reasonable buffet breakfast.

On checking out, reception explained that they had made a mistake and told me that I had been entitled to a £20 voucher for dinner, which they deducted from my bill. If I had known, might I have gone for the set course?

All in all, Holland House is a cracking venue, well furnished and a very comfortable experience.

Bottom line: Kieran Falconer paid £91 for a double DB&B.

Access all areas: Yes, for all public areas and eight rooms.

Need to know: Holland House, 24-26 Newport Road, Cardiff, (029 2043 5003, www.hollandhousehotel.co.uk).

Room: 8 out of 10.
Food: 7 out of 10.
Service: 7 out of 10.

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