The hotel: the green, green grass of home doesn’t get much greener than the Brecon Beacons valley in which Gliffaes nestles. The River Usk babbles away at the front of the hotel, and Myarth Hill rises behind. With its Italianate architecture and sculpted gardens, you’d swear you were in Tuscany. Except for the patriotic daffodils that come out in force each spring.

The welcome is warm and relaxed, the setting one of log fires, gin and tonics, and croquet on the lawn. It has been owned and run by the Brabner family for more than 50 years; its current custodians represent the third generation. James and Susie Suter took over from Susie’s parents, who live on the grounds along with 91-year-old pioneer Jane Brabner.

Happily, the revolution of minimalism, muted tones and high-tech gadgetry that has ruined so many hotels has passed Gliffaes by, and the tasteful Farrow & Ball wallpapers and Laura Ashley fabrics used in the recent redecoration fall just the right side of chintzy. So the place feels unpretentious, but in a reassuringly plush way.

What about the rooms? No two of the 22 are alike. If you can, book a room overlooking the Usk, although the grounds are pretty magnificent, too.

No 2’s vantage point over the river is breathtaking, and its glass double doors open onto a balcony overhung with wisteria. There’s a gorgeous four-poster in No 17, and No 3 is lined with oak panelling. With the exception of No 6, which has a glamorous roll-top bath, bathrooms are homely rather than extravagant, albeit complete with Gilchrist and Soames smellies.

And the food? Dinner is a serious business. The head chef, Stephan Trinci, follows a disarmingly simple philosophy: he serves good local food, cooked well. A member of the Slow Food movement, Gliffaes aims to source 65% of its fresh produce from within 50 miles of the hotel. My char-grilled Hereford rib-eye steak was succulence incarnate, and the pudding was spectacular.

Breakfast runs the full gamut of heart-stoppers, as well as laver bread, for those seeking the complete Welsh experience.

I need some exercise: the fishing season began this week and runs until October 17. The hotel owns the angling rights on 2 miles of the River Usk, famous for its wild brown trout as well as salmon and sea trout. Novices are welcome. For walkers who tire of the hotel’s gorgeous mature gardens, James will plan routes in the surrounding Brecon Beacons and Black Mountains.

You can yomp for a couple of hours to work up an appetite for the hotel’s famous tea, or take on an orienteering course. Riding, boating on Llangorse Lake, mountain-biking, potholing, hang-gliding and countless other exhausting pursuits take place locally as well. Or head for Susie’s well-stocked library of glossy magazines and mooch around the hotel with Vogue, Tatler or Trout and Salmon.

Good for: those in need of a full-on countryside fix, with added glamour.

Bad for: Techno-junkies with a fresh-air phobia.

Gliffaes Country House Hotel, Crickhowell (www.gliffaes.com). Small doubles overlooking the garden cost £80, B&B. Large doubles start at £155 for a garden view, rising to £190 for a river view and balcony. Add £59 per couple for dinner, not including wine. Book early — even Johnny Depp got turned away for calling too late

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