USP A neat, laid-back spa tucked away beneath this star-struck modern classic of a hotel (Visit London's Large Hotel of the Year 2006).

AMBIENCE The COMO Shambhala Urban Escape has two treatment rooms offering Asian-inspired, holistic therapies originally developed at a sister resort in Parrot Cay in the Turks and Caicos. Shiatsu, reiki, reflexology and Thai massage are all delivered by experienced health professionals; and private instruction in yoga or personal trainers can be arranged. The changing rooms are predictably smart with a big sunflower-head shower and a steam room that took a while to billow into action. Rooms appear quite functional compared to some smaller boutique hotels and swankier five-star operators but the front suites have impressive views beyond trafficked Hyde park Corner into the park itself and to the Western skies beyond.

EXPERIENCE Cylindra Sapphire and her male colleague certainly looked the part – beautiful, laid back and New Agey. What I liked about the experience was its simplicity – two staff, two treatment rooms a measured treatment menu that offered a good choice of no more than ten treatments without being mind bogglingly overwritten. You start by picking an essential massage oil from the small tray on the reception desk. The bottle tagged Shelter smacked of neediness so I opted for Harmony. A full body therapeutic signature massage with the almondy oil did the job. There were some nice touches that come only with the confidence of an experienced therapist – such as when our hands were interlocked and Cylindra used a rolling action with her thumb to eke out the stress in my keyboard ravaged hands. Just from touching my back Cylindra could sense that I was dehydrated. Unfortunately, on leaving the spa I bumped into a vessel busting stressed exec who was bashing the lift call button. Very deharmonising.

FOOD Ginger tea from a flask dispenser, bottled water and a fruit bowl that looked like display only but I pinched an apple. Upstairs is Nobu, offering raw fish creations and still going strong; downstairs the Met Bar may have lost its late Nineties sheen but remains a private, if expensive, drinking den for guests and members.

IN CROWD Kylie had been in the treatment room the week before; Cameron Diaz in the steam room, Angelina on the treadmill – you get the picture. In a different celebrity league altogether, Bob Dylan and Neil Young have been known to show up at COMO yoga retreats on the other side of the Atlantic. Best of all, though, the physical therapist, Cylindra, is a member of the gothic classical ensemble the Mediaeval Baebes.

WALLET WATCH The two COMO Shambhala signature massages cost £70 for 60 mins and £105 for 90 mins; a head, neck and shoulder massage is £35 for 30 mins. Private yoga costs £80 for 60 mins. And a slightly scary looking intuitive counsellor Susan King who, apparently, can “see past, present and future happenings with a staggering perspicacity” – a 60-minute consultation is £95.

NEED TO KNOW Metropolitan Hotel, Old Park Lane, London W1K 1LB (020 7447 1000; www.metropolitan.como.bz/london)

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