Mission The nagging shoulder pain, induced by holding a phone under my chin while typing and eating a sandwich, needed de-knotting. So when a friend warned me that the massage at Wat Pho would leave me feeling “like the loser in a Thai boxing match”, I was intrigued. Without wanting to sound like a jaded, been-there-bought-the-bathrobe spa-goer, I do often find massages in London a bit superficial.

USP At Wat Pho Thai Massage School, as at most spas, people are wandering around in robes. However, these aren’t the fluffy towelling robes of luxury urban spas but the saffron robes of Buddist monks.

Ambience The school is in the grounds of Wat Pho, a temple in Bangkok where stone inscriptions of yoga and massage techniques sit alongside shrines, pagoda-shaped statues and the golden reclining Buddha 46m (151ft) long.

The school itself has a rather rough and ready air. The soundtrack to your massage is a medley of whirring fans, traffic, Thailand’s typical tuk-tuk taxis beeping their horns, and, since no spa would be complete without nature sounds, birdsong. Like the statues, however, the birdsong is real: an authentic antidote to the Eastern mysticism-lite feel of many Western spas.

I was given loose cotton trousers and a smock to change into, and after emerging looking like a local fisherman, I took my place on one of the low wooden beds which gave the building the feel of a school dormitory.

Experience Wat Pho is the national headquarters for the teaching and preservation of Thai medicine and massage, and the menu offered to visitors includes straight Thai massage, herbal massage and foot massage. I plumped for an hour-long herbal massage inside at 480 baht (about £7.50). Although the masseur was very physical, and used her elbows to apply deep pressure, it didn’t hurt. It just caused that strange dull feeling of tension being unravelled. As the therapist moved my limbs into various positions I could see why it is described as lazy man’s yoga.

Products Towards the end of the massage the masseur applied an almost scalding, fragrant herbal compress containing camphor and lemongrass to my skin to stimulate circulation and improve movement, and I left feeling much more flexible, energetic and ache-free. It was the best of several massages I had in Thailand and gave new meaning to the phrase, “my body is a temple”.

Food None is served but you get a complimentary lychee drink after the treatment.

In crowd Locals and tourists, from coach parties to backpackers, looking for the “real” Thailand.

Wallet watch It’s an absolute bargain. It costs 230 baht (about £3.60) for a half-hour Thai massage, 360 baht for an hour. It’s under a tenth of the price of most massages in the UK.

Need to Know Wat Pho Thai Massage School, Soi Penphat, Bangkok (0066 (0) 221 2974). Open 8am to 5pm. Carola flew to Bangkok with Thai Airways (www.thaiairways.co.uk), Royal Silk Business Class flights from £2,001 a person return and stayed at the Metropolitan Hotel, Bangkok (0066 (0) 26253 3224); www.metropolitan.como.bz). Doubles from £154 a room a night.

You don’t have to jet off to Thailand for a Thai massage. Try out these UK venues:

LONDON Touch Alternative Health Touch offers a Thai massage with hot compresses. Price £94 for two hours Contact 020-7935 2205; www.londontouch.com

EDINBURGH The Thai Massage Organisation Masseuses trained in Thai massage and shiatsu. Price £45 for 1½ Contact 0776 541 2516; geoff@thai-massage.org.uk

HARROGATE Serenity Thai massage with reiki and use of essential oils. Price £36 for one hour Contact 0797 4919079; info@serenityofharrogate.co.uk

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