MISSION Admittedly I was starting from a disadvantage. I wanted to look as though I too belonged on Camps Bay Beach, where the rich and pampered of Cape Town spend their days, lounging before they hit one of the city's many restaurants. But being pale, a redhead and five months pregnant meant it wasn't looking promising. However, a pregnancy massage at the 12 Apostles hotel and spa might just improve things a little - the treatment included among other things, a mini-pedicure. At least my feet would look OK.

USP There can't be many spas that have such an incredible setting. On the 12 Apostles hotel and spa website they boast they are based where earth, sea and sky meet, and for once, this isn't an exaggeration. Facing the Atlantic Ocean, it backs on to the eponymously named mountain range, and is flanked by Table Mountain. Clouds which float at the top of the mountains gently drift downwards, covering everthing in a fine spray of water at the same time as the South African sun shines. In Cape Town everything is in the thrall of geography, and the 12 Apostles feels like it's at the epicentre.

AMBIENCE The spa is a troglodyte's dream. It was dug deep into the rock of the base of the 12 apostles mountain range, although the rock which forms the walls and floor of the spa is actually manmade. This subterranean cavern is illuminated by green and blue neon lights which gives it a nightclub vibe.

It's a disorientating entrance to the spa for hotel guests. Past a long corridor of treatment rooms, through the waiting area complete with the ubiquitous Buddhas (what is it with spas and the far east?), over a bridge which passes the jacuzzi and plunge pool before you get to another corridor which finally takes you to reception. But it's also a day spa for non-guests, and their entrance is less confusing.

The amenities are fantastic, and you could certainly spend half a day lounging in the big Jacuzzi, chilling in the plunge pool, relaxing in a delicious-smelling steam sauna, or weightlessly drifting in the floatation pool. Powerful showers are dotted around the spa, as are loungers, for those who are weary of the physical demands of the water features and want to laze horizontally. Powerful lights attached to the beds make reading a possibility in the gloom.

EXPERIENCE As I am pregnant it was great to put myself into the confident hands of the therapist who knew exactly what I could and couldn't do. I knew that hot rooms and hot Jacuzzis aren't good for pregnant women, but wasn't sure why. She explained it was because they may raise my blood pressure which can can cause dizziness and may be fainting. She also suggested that after 12 weeks I shouldn't lie on my front for a massage, but on my side. Her expertise meant I could properly relax, safe in the knowledge that I would only lose the stress knots in my shoulders rather than anything more important.

I opted for the pregnancy package - a choice of three half hour treatments from a menu of five, for £50. The options - i chose head massage, back massage and mini-pedicure - could be chosen on the day, so you can choose exactly what you feel like at the time. The head massage was fantastic and I slipped into unconciousness, only to awake to the sound of my own snores. The back massage was fine, although not as deep as I would have liked, but I felt that was partially because I was on my side rather than my front, so it was difficult for the therapist to get as good a grip as normal. The mini-pedicure was relaxing and had the desired effect - my pinkies have never looked so perky.

PRODUCTS Moya is the main range and is made from good quality base creams mixed with essential oils created from "fynbos", the hardy vegetation that grows all over Table Mountain. It is a brand that is based in the Western Cape, an area famed for its huge variety of plants. The lotions and potions contain local plants such as Cape geraniums and Cape chamomile, and the smell is similar to a dusky Aveda. There are also Elemis products available.

IN CROWD Bikini'd babes sipping champagne in the hot tub; slightly bedraggled looking couples coming out of the Rasul chamber having smeared each other with different types of mud; blonde women on their own coming to touch up their tan before they hit Camps Bay beach.

FOOD Melon kebabs, apples, muffins and cereal bars are on offer, alongside bottles of water and iced tea. There is a main restaurant outside the spa by the pool which guests can also use. It serves everything from oysters to club sandwiches and because of it's proximity to the pond-like swimming pool in the shade of the twelve apostles, you will feel perfectly at home in the dressing gown and slippers they provide.

WALLET WATCH By South African standards it's not a cheap spa, but it's incredible by British ones. My 1.5 hour pregnancy treatment cost £50, a 75 minute Elemis facial costs £42, a 4 hour destress package which includes lunch and cocktails costs a mere £110. A nights accommodation for two costs from £228, including breakfast, but you can go there just for treatments and don't need to pay an entrance fee.

The Leading Hotels of the World (00800 2888 8882 (toll free) / www.lhw.com) offers stays at The Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa, Cape Town from £228 per room per night for two people inc. breakfast. Flights cost to Cape Town cost from £460 with daily evening flights going direct. No changeovers and only one to two hours time difference means there is no jetlage. Reservations: 0870 747 1111. Website and web bookings: www.flysaa.com. For more information about travelling to South Africa, visit: www.southafrica.net

NEED TO KNOW 12 Apostles Hotel and Spa, Victoria Road, Camps Bay, Cape Town, South Africa (00 27 21 437 9000; www.12apostleshotel.com)

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