Ginny McGrath
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USP Casa Angelina is in an idyllic spot, perched on the cliffs that tumble down from Praiano, overlooking Positano down the coast, and on a clear day Capri in the distance. It’s an hour and a half from Naples airport, and about the same distance from the ancient archaeological site at Pompeii, a wonderful day trip from the hotel, ideally combined with an afternoon exploring the winding back streets of Naples.
QUALITY OF EXPERIENCE I opted for the only obvious signature treatment, a massage using citrus fruits from the Amalfi coast. I had pictured a basket of freshly picked oranges and lemons, the latter growing in abundance in the groves around the hotel. I’d hoped to have been invigorated with the smell of fresh citrus fruits although quite how this would have been incorporated into a massage I wasn’t sure. So it was a little disappointing, but perhaps unsurprising, when the therapist produced two bottles of fruit scented oil, which she didn’t offer to me to smell, and which I couldn’t smell even while the treatment was going on.
It was a nice massage, and I use this limp superlative because it sums up the experience. The pressure was soft, and my requests for a firmer massage were sadly lost in translation. It was relaxing and pleasant – perfect for someone with a touch of sunburn or perhaps after a long lazy lunch, but I felt that I got little of the invigoration promised in the brochure.
Perhaps if I’d gone for the deep massage I would have got what I wanted. Other treatments on offer include reiki, four choices of facial, and manicure and pedicure. It’s not an exhaustive list and it’s clear that Casa Angelina is a hotel first and a spa second. There’s only one treatment room and one therapist (although this will expand next year), and there’s no spa packages so you can’t get a combination of treatments at a reduced price. Having said that, with the outdoor and indoor pools (more of a large whirlpool), cardiovascular and weights equipment and sauna (which had fragrant lemon and herby oils to scent the steam), there is plenty for the health junkie.
These facilities, plus the walks to the beach, swimming in the sea, kayaking and healthy food means those of strong resolve, who can resist Casa Angelina’s vast fresh brioche at breakfast, delicious chocolate puddings at dinner, and the fragrant regional wines, could come away from a break at the hotel feeling revitalised and cleansed – surely the objective of a spa weekend?
AMBIENCE The hotel was renovated three years ago to become the minimalist retreat it is now – the rooms were halved in number to 40, balconies added, walls whitewashed and a pool installed. Three years on the décor is still pristine and on entrance you glide past the cool reception to see a long lounge of white sofas looking out of floor-to-ceiling glass onto the hotel patio and across the sparkling Mediterranean Sea. The décor is minimalist and almost exclusively white, creating a cool sanctuary from the heat on the terraces.
From the outset there’s little awareness of the hotel spa, although the medical theme of the staff uniforms, apparently motivated by a Mexican hotel that the owner once stayed in, suggests a health leaning. The long blue linen tunics and white trousers inspire cool and calm, as does the soothing demeanor of the staff. I say this because everyone that we spoke to – waiters, barmen, or receptionist was helpful and unruffled by any request. A transfer to Pompeii (an hour and a half away), a cocktail that wasn’t on the list, a request to borrow one of the kayaks on the beach below the hotel – nothing was too much trouble.
The treatment room is like the other bedrooms – small but not cramped and white throughout, with a window overlooking the Mediterranean.
IN CROWD Fellow guests were mostly stylish couples, bar two families with young children, and were a pleasing mix of Italians, French, Spanish and Americans
FOOD Fresh fruit at breakfast and yoghurt meant there were plentiful healthy options but the temptation of the pastries and brioche in particular was too much for me. Likewise it was easy to be healthy at dinner, with fish served onto your plate just hours after it is caught, although there was also plenty to indulge, including flavoursome pasta dishes and creamy desserts. The four-course menu for 45 euros is good value, or it costs about 30 euros for two courses if you eat from the a la carte menu.
WALLET WATCH My citrus massage lasted 45 minutes and costs 100 euros, while facials cost from 50 euros from 30 minutes, and manicures and pedicures 25 euros. Meanwhile official rates cost from 210 euros per night including VAT but not breakfast, which is charged at 21 euros per person. However, packages are available, which include meals and spa treatments – see the special offers section of the hotel website for more details.
NEED TO KNOW Casa Angelina, Via G Capriglione 147, 84010 Praiano, Amalfi Coast, Italy, tel. +39 089 813 13 33; www.casangelina.com; angelina@steinhotels.com
Casa Angelina is 90 minutes by car from Naples Airport. Ginny McGrath flew to Naples with easyJet, which offers flights to the Italian city from Stansted, and also from Paris, Basel, Milan and Berlin.
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