USP Aztec is a comfortable spa - not particularly stylish or elegant, slightly dingy but surprisingly relaxing and homely all the same. Those searching for the El Dorado of boutique retreats can give it a miss but spa virgins and anyone who gets intimidated by too much white minimalism will appreciate the warm welcome and low-key approach.

AMBIENCE TLH Leisure Resort caters to those members of the cruise-ship crowd who prefer to stay on dry land. Four original Victorian hotels are now linked together by walkways to form one large complex complete with indoor and outdoor pools, indoor bowling (crown green and ten pin), ballroom dancing and entertainment aplenty. This is the kind of place where you won't be allowed to get bored, no matter how atrocious the weather outside.

The Aztec spa slots neatly into this set-up, situated cosily in the basement next to the pool, sauna and steam room. The Amazon Jungle decor of the Aztec spa makes for a pleasant hothouse environment in which to while away an hour or two. This isn't the kind of spa to spend all day unwinding in but it's great as part of a girl's day out or as a tropical refuge from the ravages of the average British summer. The Aztec theme and brochure talk about ancient rituals doesn't seem to extend into the treatments.

EXPERIENCE A lot of care and attention was taken over my Elemis taster facial, which also included a complementary foot, hand and arm massage to make sure I was completely relaxed. Elemis products are made from natural ingredients, but I did, at times, feel like my face was being smeared with fruit yoghurt - albeit a high quality organic one like local favourite Yeo Valley. My facial was followed by a fantastic pedicure - no slapping on of nail varnish here, my friendly therapist took my tired toes back to basics and washed, buffed and preened my feet to perfection. I left feeling fabulous - a decent pedicure is one of the best instant glamourisers I know.

FOOD Semi-healthy pub grub prepared by hotel chefs and served in the spa area. The hotel will soon be opening an airy new bistro where spa guests will have their own private area. The meals are all one-course and range from virtuous fruit platters and salads to more hearty dishes like lasagne and salmon and broccoli bake, after all this isn't a health farm.

IN CROWD The "It's All About You" package is popular with hen parties and their mums. The spa is also frequented by ballroom dancers and bowlers in need of TLC, and it attracts a mix of hotel guests, people there for the day and locals popping in for single treatments.

WALLET WATCH This is a value-for-money spa. An Elemis Taster Facial is £29 and a 55-minute pedicure costs £28. Aztec also offers overnight spa packages, bridal specials and tailor-made treatments for men. The Girls Just Want to Have Fun summer package, which includes an Elemis Exotic Lime and Ginger Salt Glow, Replenishing Manicure Pedicure, use of spa facilities and lunch, costs £79.

NEED TO KNOW Aztec Spa at TLH Leisure Resort, Belgrave Road, Torquay, TQ2 5HT (01803 400190; www.tlh.co.uk/Aztec-Spa/)

For more than 200 reviews of spas worldwide visit Times Online's Good Spa Guide

Times recommends

• The world's 10 weirdest things to eat
• Correspondents: hoteliers revenge for Tripadvisor
• A slow, ponderous journey up the Mekong