USP A sleek spa in perfect harmony with its natural surrounds. This is a country hotel in its own grounds, yet the pretty town with all its hostelries is just a stroll away. Front of house has a real fountain pen with which to check in and the brothers Brennan (Francis is the proprietor and John is the manager) and their team are witty, unimposing and genuinely interested in your leisure welfare. Other hoteliers could learn and awful lot here.

AMBIENCE James Bond-like glass walls with slate floors and a mossy roof. Stepping from the ground-floor corridor of the hotel into the spa’s naturally textured interior is like swapping a Sherlock Holmes world for one of an architect’s magazine. The warm outdoor vitality pool overlooks a rocky glade with tall pine and beech trees where crows nest. Numbers are limited in the spa – with hotel guest priority - so you always feel well attended by staff dressed in khaki smocks.

EXPERIENCE The compact spa has a light reception area and six candlelit treatment rooms below reached by glass stairs. I picked a “nurturing” massage but got a slightly hectoring kick-in from the Hungarian Josef. It kicked off calmly with a mineral-salt foot bath – it being Easter I felt as though I should reciprocate in true Biblical fashion but obviously didn’t – and finished with towel wrapped boots. I sniff-picked a slightly sweet “fitness” botanical oil and braced myself for some rigorous, gristle kneading that hovered precariously close to my pain threshold all delivered with a side-dish of lifestyle advice. “Unlike computers our minds never switch off,” said Josef. As a keen wordsmith I wasn’t sure that what I experienced could be described as “nurturing” but after golf, tennis and a week on the laptop maybe this was the massage I needed. Although it didn’t allow me to lazily drift off, iIt was a good, solid treatment and the next day I felt, quite literally, that a load had been lifted off my shoulders. The spa offers a range of complimentary classes and activities from a daily morning serentiy walk to outdoor Tai Chi classes. I had a private introduction session to Chi Kung which was excellent. I’m still using the side-to-side arm swinging exercise to promote energy in the mornings.

FOOD Fresh fruit and ginger tea at the spa, hearty gourmet in the hotel. The restaurant has views of steep wooded hills and landscaped gardens with plam trees and a lone shire pony. Waiting staff has a quaint ritual of curtseying and “presenting” each course on a tray before your eyes. The food is fresh and local where possible but with the sort of oversized inter-course portions that we imagine Americans might enjoy. Between a starter of carpaccio of Irish beef with leeks and fennel and a main course of duck I probably didn’t need a piping hot bowl of cauliflower and smoked salmon soup.

IN-CROWD Fewer Americans than you might have thought. Smart Brits and locals – including lots of men according to the spa - seeking a breath of Kerry’s fresh air. The adjoining golf course is a treasure with a couple of holes of breathtaking beauty.

WALLET WATCH Pick any treatment for about £90 each for an hour; the couples suite is £120 per half day. Three nights B&B with two dinners from £550 per person.

NEED TO KNOW Samas Spa, Park Hotel Kenmare, Ireland (00 353 64 41200; www.parkkenmare.com)

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