Fay Schopen
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USP If you need a break from the frenetic activity of Marrakesh, head for the spa and hamman in the grounds of the Palais Rhoul hotel, a 15-minute drive outside of the city. The hamman is the domain of Abdelkhader, a taciturn man and the star of the show.
AMBIENCE Hidden away behind a tall wall, Le Palais Rhoul takes time to reveal itself. Outside, there are wind-swept palms, empty streets and more high walls, but inside a reception tent looks and feels like a chill-out room at an upmarket Ibiza club, and a high ceilinged foyer mixes marble, modern architecture and Moroccan history to great effect. Tucked away in the grounds are the spa and the hamman, the latter is modelled on a traditional Turkish bath with a fountain, plunge pool and three separate rooms at different temperatures. Relaxation is almost instant - the late afternoon light sets off the domed roof and Moroccan tiles – and there are only 12 guest rooms (and six luxury guest tents) dotted around five hectare grounds, so expect an intimate visit.
EXPERIENCE After being left lying on a hot stone floor in the wet room, Abdelkhader returned to throw buckets of water in my face. Much more pleasant than it sounds. A thorough body scrub with a brillo pad type mitt followed. Ladies, bikini tops pose no challenge to Abdelkhader - dispose of them and enjoy the exfoliation. Famed for his approach to body manipulation, Abdelkhader follows up by doing alarming things to your legs, arms and back, before lifting you in the air, throwing you around a bit and somersaulting you over his head. It felt amazing.
Surprise seems to be the name of the game at Le Palais Rhoul. After emerging from the cold plunge pool, a tray of orange segments appeared, not as a mid-treatment snack, as I thought, but part of the experience, as they were rubbed vigorously all over my body. A shower and fluffy bathrobes followed, before orange rosewater was flung in my face, a parting gift from Abdelkhader. In the treatment rooms, I opted for a simple massage. Unless your French, and/or miming skills are above par, it's hard to communicate what type of massage you want. I got, was I given in the end. My therapist had a light touch, which was pleasant but not earth shatteringly good. But the combination of Abdelkhader and the argan and orange oils that the therapist rubbed on me left me feeling entirely relaxed - in fact, asleep
FOOD There are two restaurants at the hotel, but only one, which serves traditional Moroccan food including couscous and tagines, is open for lunch. A French restaurant, L’ Abyssin, serves dinner from 8pm. But if you fancy eating off menu, or having a snack by the pool, just ask for what you want, and staff will oblige.
IN CROWD A stay at the Palais Rhoul requires suitcases full of cash. Expect to see bored looking Eurotrash couples hanging out by the pool and lazily hitting tennis balls around, middle-aged men and the odd young hipster.
WALLET WATCH A visit to the hamman costs £33, with massages starting at £23 for half an hour, rising to £43 for an hour. A manicure is yours for £23, and an 'oriental luxury' pedicure will set you back £37. By comparison a trip to a traditional hamman in Morocco frequented by locals will cost between £4-£10, depending on what extras, like massage, you throw in..
NEED TO KNOW Le Palais Rhoul, route de Fes, Palmeraie (+212 24 329494; www.palais-rhoul.com) Email: info@palais-rhoul.com
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