USP Aqua Sana is on the CenterParcs site in the middle of Sherwood forest, with lush and leafy views across the trees. The company is in the middle of a revamp, updating its villas - aka breeze block bungalows - with a stylish woodland theme to an impressive hotel standard. Think wooden cladding outside, soft dove grey and forest greens inside, with sleek white modern kitchen and dining area.

AMBIENCE The spa area is a circular building constructed around an open-air pool; it is spacious and calm, even the treatment rooms don't feel too pokey. The CenterParcs site bustles with bikes and pedestrians so it's a welcome respite, especially if you have had a hectic time taking part in all the myriad family activities. The minimum age in the spa is 16. The "World of Spa" deal offers about ten different hydrotherapy-based rooms arranged around the pool. Pick and mix from a traditional Turkish hammam and roman tepidarium - where you lie on heated mosaic loungers - to the more exotic Indian Blossom Steam Room and my husband's favourite, the Japanese Salt Bath, where the misty air is infused with mineral salts, jasmine and mint for a head clearing treat. There are loungers a-plenty and several intimate little gardens to soak up the sunshine and listen to the birdsong.

QUALITY OF EXPERIENCE Service is unpretentious and attentive. Plenty of fluffy towels and robes in the changing rooms, though these are communal - off-putting for some. As well as the World of Spa there is a full range of treatments using Elemis, Decleor and Carita products. I had an Elemis Pure Harmony massage. This was extremely good, especially when the therapist, Diane, massaged my ears, a divine experience which explains why cats purr and go all soppy when you fondle them there. This is a trick Diane has incorporated from practising Indian head massage, as her own little signature thing. A noisy air conditioning unit interfered with the soothing music featuring bird song - well, we are in a forest - though Diane obligingly turned it off.

FOOD This usually comes in for a pasting at CenterParcs but changing menus are part of the revamp. You'd expect the spa cafe to offer healthy salads and juice, which it does, as well as naughty pastries and bottles of wine, but now there are much improved options in several of the food outlets on site, with local produce flagged up on menus and in the supermarket, which also stocks plenty of fresh fruit and veg. There is also a kids' organic menu in many of the restaurants, featuring the usual options such as spaghetti and tomato sauce, not bad value at £6.45 including a dessert and soft drink. Salt and sugar has been redued in other kids' options. The big surprise was the £36 welcome pack awaiting us in our villa - which included locally produced bread, bacon, sausages and eggs; strawberry and champagne jam from Mr Pitchfork's preserves; real ale from Castle Rock brewery and the only thing that struck a sour note - some Worcestershire wine. If it wasn't local, or organic or both (Belvoir fruit drinks) it was fairly traded. Classy, healthy food at CenterParcs? Now you're talking.

IN CROWD I visited on Sunday morning, when there is a ladies only session: jolly gangs of giggly, girlie northern lasses of all ages. Hen parties much in evidence but also mums and daughters and later on, young couples. Sessions have to be booked in advance so it doesn't get too crowded.

WALLET WATCH A two-bed executive villa sleeping four costs from £399 for a three-night weekend stay. Aqua Sana is CenterParcs own spa brand, open only to residents, though these can invite friends in on a day pass - spa extra. The World of Spa session is good value at £35; £27 on Monday and Friday evenings. Treatments range from £30 for a 25- minute Swedish Massage to £134 for a couple's Caribbean Ceremony including scrub, wrap and facial oozing ginger, frangipani and papaya. Kids' clubs From £12-£18 for a two to three-hour session

NEED TO KNOW CenterParcs, Sherwoood Forest, Rufford, Newark, Nottinghamshire NG22 9DN (www.centerparcs.co.uk or www.aquasana.co.uk)

For more than 200 reviews of spas worldwide visit Times Online's Good Spa Guide

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