Ann Brady
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MISSION To see whether a few days of relaxation at a hotel and spa deep in the heart of Chianti country could help to relieve an uncomfortable bout of irritable bowel syndrome.
USP Signature spa treatments that use extra-virgin olive oil prepared from the olives grown on the hotel’s large estate. Plus, location, location, location. Before even a potion is uncorked or a lotion applied, the glorious views of the rolling Tuscan hills as far as the eyes can see, with vineyards, olive groves and the odd medieval village dotted around, are a sight for sore tummies. Bellissima.
AMBIENCE Does Castello del Nero live up to the stunning environs? Si, si, si! This peaceful five-star hotel is a splendid 12th-century castle, but it comes with 21st-century trappings, such as internet connections in the bedrooms and a stylish state-of-the-art spa. It is set on a hill in about 400 hectares (990 acres) of farmland, about halfway between Florence and Siena. Most of the hotel’s 50 rooms and suites have superb views of the surrounding valleys and hills, and the sumptuously decked-out bedrooms and bath-rooms take the edge off the stone-flagged floors of this magnificent though rather austere building. And did I mention the heated outdoor swimming pool? It’s just big enough to work off pasta and ice-cream blow-outs.
The modern spa, which is located under the hotel’s terrace and is connected to the hotel by an underground passage, is a delightful contrast of wood, glass, slate floors, sleek furnishings and tasteful blue mosaics. Visitors are greeted by water cascading down a glass wall, which forms the backdrop to the reception area. All the skin-care products and treatments were devised by the UK spa experts Espa, and the spa’s Italian therapists were all trained in situby Espa people.
QULAITY OF EXPERIENCE To get the maximum benefits from my treatment, the Castello del Nero relaxation ritual (one hour, 50 min), I was advised by the manager to spend an hour relaxing in the spa facilities. So off I floated to the laconium (sauna), followed by a stint in the caldarium (steam room), and a pummelling from water jets on the neck and shoulders in the vitality pool, before melting on to a lounger in the relaxation area – an apt name, as the gentle snores of one of the other guests bore testimony to. Lara, my therapist, who spoke good English, was quiet, efficient and professional. The relaxation ritual began with a decadent footbath and, just as I was thinking I’d never make it to the treatment table, a vigorous body exfoliation with heated extra-virgin olive oil and mineral sea salts got me back on my feet and ready for the hot-stone back massage. The whirrings in my tummy were turning to deep purrings and my only anxiety was that I might disgrace myself by drooling through the hole in the treatment table.
PRODUCTS The yummy Espa products include a deep cleansing balm made with damascene rose oil, with spearmint and geranium, a facial cleanser with yucca extract, and a herbal tonic made with rosemary, tea tree oil and peppermint.
IN-CROWD Well-heeled Americans who are “doing” Italy and getting a taste of a medieval noble’s lifestyle, albeit one with air-conditioning and a change of towels and sheets every day; plus professional couples (German and Israeli when I was there) chilling out with their 2.2 children and nannies. Castello del Nero is also popular with couples who want to renew their marriage vows in the pretty private chapel.
FOOD The hotel’s La Torre restaurant adds its own twist to typical local dishes, such as a Tuscan bread salad, with raisins, and the ubiquitous pasta with duck sauce, with black olives. Delicate stomachs will be soothed by the scallops and almond risotto. All, of course, drizzled with the home-grown olive oil.
WALLET WATCH A three-night stay at the five-star Castello del Nero with Kirker Holidays costs from £896 per person (two sharing). Price includes return scheduled flights (to Pisa, Bologna, Florence or Rome), three nights accommodation with breakfast and car hire for the duration of your holiday. Until the end of October, guests can have six nights for the price of five, at £1,596 per person. Contact Kirker Holidays on 020-7593 2288 (www.kirkerholidays.com ). Spa prices range from £185 for the relaxation ritual, to £46 for a full body salt and oil scrub (25 minutes).
NEED TO KNOW Hotel Castello del Nero, Strada Spicciano 7, Tavernelle Val di Pesa, Florence; (39) 055 80 64 70; www.castellodelnero.com .
JUST DIP IN
From a seawater jet massage in France to a traditional Turkish bath in London, read more independent spa reviews online timesonline.co.uk/goodspaguide
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