Argentinean women deserve their reputation for being some of the most beautiful and stylish in the world. Walking around Palermo, a trendy, Notting Hill with cobbles, shopping area in Buenos Aires, you can see droves of them in their element, picking out some new, skimpy, see through top. They are all immaculately turned out and scarily skinny which made me feel like a gorilla, arriving from the jungle, especially as I had managed to leave my make-up bag at home – dohhh.

It’s relief to discover that it’s not all natural. They think nothing of heading off to the plastic surgeon and there is a joke that when they holiday in the exclusive resort of Punta del Este in Uruguay, a swift glance can tell you which is their surgeon of choice.

And it’s not just the women who want to look good. Aside from the traditional macho polo player types, I noticed a new breed of foppish young men who spend all their time dieting to fit into the ludicrously tight drain pipes, which are all the rage.

But it is not all about surgery, spas are also a popular hang out. They are seen as a place to relax and socialise. And tourists like me are getting in on the act, hoping to learn some of their beauty secrets.

Faena Hotel + Universe Spa, Buenos Aires

MISSION La Faena is the it hotel in Buenos Aires. When Coldplay, Jamiroqui or any other band are in town, this is where they choose to stay. The French designer, Philippe Starck has really gone to town on Buenos Aires' first design hotel. He told the owner Alan Faena that he wanted to create a beautiful theatre, where the guests are the stars of the show. And I want a piece of the action, so the mission is to keep up with the fashionistas and try and look as polished and glamorous as they do.

USP But, it’s not just about style at the hotel. Augustina, the new spa manager, has injected a healthy dose of spirituality into the treatments. Guests, staff and even locals can start the day with a meditation session. And “therapies for the soul” such as pranic healing, which works on revitalising the body’s energetic aura, are offered as well as the more mainstream massages and luxurious La Prairie treatments. I started the day with a one-on-one yoga session in an airy white room, which was later transformed with candles for my massage.

AMBIENCE This ultra-hip hotel is in the heart of Puerto Madero, the newly fashionable docklands area. It has kept the shell of an old grain factory, built from dusky red bricks imported from Manchester in the early 20th Century. But inside it is a completely different world. The overall impression is one of opulence, glamour and a kind of nostalgia for the Belle Epoque when Argentina was one of the biggest economies in the world. In the bistro you can find chairs shaped like golden swans and wild eyed white unicorns protruding out of the walls.

The spa has more of an eastern feel, with a Turkish Hammam, where you can help yourself to water with fresh mint served from silver jugs and nibble on pistachio nuts and dried fruit while you wait for your treatment. It would be easy to spend the whole day here shimmying between the relaxation room, the Jacuzzi and the hammam. Outside there is a glorious pool with red chaise lounges and booths reminiscent of the French Riviera.

EXPERIENCE The pranic healing therapists were busy on a weekend course with their guru, so I was told that the Ayurvedic massage is a good alternative. My therapist, Ramon expertly applied oils made up of chamomile, myrrh, grapeseed and lavender to my body and for my face the lighter sandalwood, avocado, wheatgerm and rose oils. They smelt so delicious and his massage was so relaxing that I dosed on and off for most of the treatment and floated into the next one - the tourist special, a wine therapy.

I was laid out on a slab with some suspicious looking jets dangling over my head and smeared with grape seeds, which are meant to have an anti-ageing affect. I was then rubbed down by a very lovely Argentinean lady called Vicki until my skin was baby soft. The next bit was a body mask made out of grape extracts, and when it was dry the water jets started to swab me down. It was a good way to give my Sahara-like skin, a kick-start in the middle of winter but I preferred the massage. Things like the wine treatment and the yerba mate one are a fun alternative, but on the whole the therapists told me that both tourists and locals like to stick to the massages and facials.

PRODUCTS Augustina told me that La Prairie products are a big pull for clients, but I really loved the massage oils as well. They use a special fusion of oils from the AyurVida range. For treatments like the wine and yerba mate one they use local products.

IN-CROWD Glamorous locals have membership at the gym and live it up in the bar on a Saturday night. Rock stars see it as a home from home when they are on tour, and the others guests could be anything from stylish gay couples on a cultural tour, to jet-set families on holiday.

FOOD Apples, grapes, dried apricots and nuts are all on offer at the spa, as well as a variety of teas and water infused with fresh mint. There are two restaurants at the hotel, the exclusive, Bistro and the more, earthy El Mercado, where local produce is sold outside. At El Mercado a steak will set you back around £10 but that doesn’t include any side dishes. And at the Bistro you can find dishes such as grilled black rice with octopus sashimi as a starter for about £8, and sole with lemon puree and oysters for around £11.

WALLET WATCH By Argentinean standards the prices here are only for the rich, but if you think about the setting and the service by British Standards they are a bargain. My Ayurvedic massage was a snip at £55, considering I felt as glamorous as any of the locals by the end of it. Most of the therapies are similar prices, unless you want one of their five star treatments like a caviar body firming treatment which will cost more like £100. La Faena starts from £350 per night/double with breakfast. Flights start from £699. Book through Exsus Travel (www.exsus.com; 020 7292 5050)

NEED TO KNOW La Faena Hotel + Universe, Spa, Buenos Aires Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2 Puerto Madero Este (00 54 11 4010 9000; Leading Hotels of the World)

For more than 200 independent spa reviews worldwide: timesonline.co.uk/goodspaguide

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