USP Overlooking Lundy Island on the north coast of Devon, Downe Health Spa is an escapist’s retreat — it is one of two places in England that can claim to have no noise or light pollution. The spa is basic and very much in its infancy, but the welcome is warm, friendly and intimate. Ideal for spa virgins who might be intimidated by a more professional and slick set-up.

AMBIENCE For 500 years Downe Health Spa was a working dairy farm, until ten years ago when Jeremy and Linda Roe decided to take on a new challenge in their retirement and converted most of the farm buildings into self-catering cottages. The spa was more of an afterthought and was only added three years ago as a way of keeping campers happy when the weather was particularly bad.

However it is the spa, situated in what was once the dairy, that has exceeded expectations and there are now plans to expand, with an indoor pool, a separate gym and more treatment rooms on the agenda. Whether it retains its homely, unpretentious feel remains to be seen.

Certainly the fact that the spa is so small meant that my husband and I often had the run of it, so there were none of those moments of self-consciousness that you can often feel when you are parading around in a white fluffy robe and slippers. And my husband said it was wonderful to wallow in the Jacuzzi without worrying whose feet you have just accidentally touched. The staff, which includes Emily the cat, were friendly and unobtrusive, and you are just as likely to get your therapist serving you lunch as you are giving you a treatment.

EXPERIENCE Being in the early stages of pregnancy meant that the Jacuzzi and steam room were off-limits as well as some of the treatments. Kay, my therapist, was able however to guide me in the right direction and suggested I opt instead for the Four Layer Facial which proved to be invigorating, and surprisingly at one point very claustrophobic as my face was wrapped in layers of heavy clay, which seemed to set rock-like just as quickly as it was applied. Lots of deep breathing ensued, and had Kay’s hand been in reach, I would probably have grabbed that too.

It was a small price to pay though for skin that was still visibly glowing the following day. Next on the agenda was an incredibly relaxing all-over body massage using oil from lavender grown locally. At points I could feel myself giving unintelligible answers to Kay’s questions as I desperately tried to fight the temptation to fall asleep. Weakly, I lost the battle.

FOOD If you choose the Pamper Day option, a two-course lunch is included. And with light choices such as homemade soup, salad, scrambled eggs and smoked salmon it is impossible not to feel slightly virtuous, particularly as a glass of wine to accompany the meal didn’t appear to be an option. Where possible everything is sourced locally using fresh ingredients or if in-season, grown in the garden.

Afternoon tea, though, was definitely the highlight. Scones homemade according to a recipe from Jeremy’s grandmother, were light, fluffy and very moreish, while the lavender and strawberry jam sourced from the lavender farm next door was delicious. Sadly, when we popped by the next day to stock up on the jam, the farm had sold out.

IN CROWD Families who have been staying in the self-catering cottages for years, hen parties who take over the whole spa for the day, and couples looking to escape.

Stressed city workers are next on the Downe Health Spa hit list, with the newly created Pamper Getaway break, £325 per person. Catch a train from London Paddington (2 hours and 15 minutes) on Friday night and you will be met at Tiverton Parkway and whisked away to the spa for two days of pampering before being deposited back at the station on Sunday night.

WALLET WATCH The Pamper Day option including lunch and cream tea and use of the spa but excluding treatments, costs £60; a one night Pamper Break costs £199 per person and includes an Aromatherapy Body massage, a two course evening meal and a continental breakfast. The Four Layer facial costs £59 and the Aromatherapy body massage costs £55, both last an hour.

NEED TO KNOW Downe Health Spa, Hartland, Bideford, Devon EX39 6DA (01237 441881; www.devonspa.com)

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