Lisa Zanardo
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USP Salsomaggiore Terme is famous throughout Europe for its natural salty thermal waters, rich in iodine, bromine, sulphur and calcium. Here, water is the master. It comes direct from artesian wells up to 1,200m deep at a temperature of 16°C and with a salt density three times higher than that of the Dead Sea.
The water is efficacious in the prevention and treatment of diseases of the gynaecological and respiratory systems and also helps with metabolic and hormonal dysfunctions. Characterised by historical art nouveau décor and situated in the Po Valley in the gastronomic region of Emilia-Romagna, Salsomaggiore Terme is definitely a place to satisfy mind, body and soul.
AMBIENCE I visited Salsomaggiore Terme in August, when Italians take their annual holidays, so it was extremely quiet. I don't think it gets too much more hectic in peak season, however, the town does host the finals of the Miss Italia contest and other events, so no doubt can develop a nice buzz.
I stayed at Hotel Porro, one of two hotels associated with the spa resort. It is opulently decorated, in keeping with the Liberty-style architecture of the town, but modestly equipped. Historical architecture is everywhere in Salsomaggiore, but the most prominent example is that of the Berzieri spa in the centre of town, which is famed as one of the nation’s most significant monuments due to the whiteness of its marble.
It is also where I had my series of thermal water-based treatments. The building, inside and out, is pure opulence, reflecting influences from that of Eastern temples to Liberty-deco-style. This all adds to the feeling of luxury as you imagine yourself in some far-off time and place. The spa rooms are large, well-equipped, clean and nicely decorated. In between treatments you are free to lounge in your bathrobe, relax in one of the quiet areas or help yourself to herbal teas.
TREATMENTS All treatments at the spa are prefaced by a consultation with a qualified physician who assesses what treatment best suits you or your ailment. If you don't speak Italian, request an English speaking physician and clarify any medical conditions at this stage as your therapist may not speak English.
Recently, the spa has focused on using chromo-therapy to enhance the benefit of its saline waters and provide a more holistic approach to relaxation.
I underwent a programme entitled "air to water", which consisted of: 20 minutes in a tepidarium (40°C) – a dry air environment akin to a sauna; 20 minutes in a calidarium (60°C) – a Roman sweat room, with a dry environment, and 20 minutes in a frigidarium (15°C) – a cold room of blue and grey colourings and a huge tub of ice, which you rub over your body and ice-cold buckets of water to pour over your head.
I then moved on to a shower room where timed jets hit strategic parts of the body to de-contract the muscles. This was followed by a series of hydro-massage baths, alternating hot and cold in temperature, known as a Kniepp track.The alternating of hot and cold is supposed to stimulate circulation, particularly in the arms and legs.
This was followed by a delicious 20-minute chromo-bath, using coloured salts and aromatherapy oils which were specifically blended to my requirements. As the jets gently massaged my body and the smell of roses from the salts kicked in, it was difficult to stay awake. Just as I was about to nod off, I was ushered out of the bath and into a dark room, with lights on the ceiling resembling the night sky. Here I underwent a full body massage, focusing on mobilising cellulite and increasing circulation in the lymphatic system to cleanse the body of toxins.
Italians are quite open about their bodies so when they say full-body massage, they mean full-body. My advice is leave your modesty and insecurities at the door, because there is no place for them at the spa.
The whole process took almost three hours and surprisingly I felt tired and sleepy afterwards. This is apparently normal and due to the effect of the heavy iodine content in the waters. Nevertheless I was completely relaxed and my entire body felt smooth and cleansed. The spa has a wide variety of treatments available from one-hour massages to day-long wellness programmes and more intense week-long programmes, which focus on the rehabilitation of longer-term illnesses and ailments.
PRODUCTS The spa has developed its own line of ecological cosmetics based on the active ingredients of the salt waters. They take the form of creams and lotions and are only available direct from the spa.
IN CROWD Mostly Italians of an older demographic undergoing rehabilitative programmes. The spa is only starting to make its foray into the wider European and Western markets. Staff say the spa is normally booked solid with people of all ages, with the more modern treatments proving popular with the younger set. The spa does also attract celebrities. Sophia Loren pays an annual homage to the spa after it was alleged the waters helped her fall pregnant after many unsuccessful years of trying.
FOOD Hotel Porro has a good restaurant, which sources local ingredients such as Parma ham and Lambrusco wines, typical of the region, to produce menus that complement the stylish yet healthy environment of the spa resort.
WALLET WATCH A superior double room at the Hotel Porro costs €92 (£60) and includes breakfast. The closest airport to Salsomaggiore Terme is Parma, which Ryanair flies to daily. Spa treatments range from €12 for a foot massage to €80 for a hypertonic spa bath with hydro and specific massage (1 hour). Wellness packages range from €169 for one-day visits to €774 for six-day treatment programmes.
NEED TO KNOW For more information about the spas in Emilia Romagna visit www.emiliaromagnaterme.it
For general information about tourism in Emilia Romagna visit www.emiliaromagnaturismo.it
For flight prices and availability from London Stansted to Parma visit www.ryanair.com
For more information on the spa products at Berzieri Spa visit www.turismo.parma.it
For information on the Grand Hotel Porro in Salsomaggiore go to www.grandhotel-porro.it or phone: 0039 0524 578221 or email: info@grandhotel-porro.it
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